Merlin


Merlin
Abracadabra and Ala Ka Zam - this pattern looked and felt like magic to me.  It can also be imagined into so many other things - a daisy, a starry night, or even an 8-legged sea creature.  Thus, this pattern is named Merlin after the famous magician and shapeshifter of the King Arthur Legends.  It is the first in a series of squares I will be releasing that are inspired by the Legends of King Arthur - look for Guinevere and King Arthur to be released January 2020!

Special thanks to all the following Ravelry members for testing this project: 

Sarahefalconer, absintheofmalice, MawMawsGarden, Paradx, madaboutpooh, Kaikelasa, Wuzzelpirate, and wisdom61

I appreciate each of you!

A free version of the pattern follows.  If you prefer a printable PDF, one is available for a small fee in my Ravelry store HERE.

Enjoy the pattern!

- Lisa



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Materials:
·         Size H/5 mm crochet hook;
·         Tapestry needle for weaving in ends;
·         8 stitch markers;
·         Worsted weight yarns in the brand/color of your choice.  I used the following colors (note cool colorway expressed as numbers rather than letters):


Merlin by land
(top & round photos)
Merlin by sea
(bottom)
A
Graphite - HL
1 – Antique Teal – HL
B
Sungold - HL
2 – Glacier – HL
C
Burnt Pumpkin – HL
3 – Sea Blue – HL
D
Red – HL
4 – Dark Denim – HL
E
Aubergine – HL
5 – Light Blue – YB
F
Mid Green – HL
6 – Linen - HL
G
Greybeard – HL

H
Mixed Berry – HL

I
Purple - HL

HL = Hobby Lobby I Love this Yarn
YB = Yarn Bee

Hook Size/Gauge:

Using an H size hook I was able to obtain a 12” square.

Basic Terms/Abbreviations Used (US terminology):
ch – chain                                                          BPhdc – back post half double crochet
yo – yarn over                                                   FPdc – front post double crochet
slst – slip stitch                                                  FPtr – front post triple crochet   
sc – single crochet                                             FLO – front loop only
hdc – half double crochet                                  BLO – back loop only
dc – double crochet                                        
tr – triple crochet                                             
FPsc – front post single crochet                  

For reference ease, special stitches, are defined in the rounds they are used in.



Beginning Loop:

With color A/1, ch 4.  Join with a slst to first ch – beginning loop made.

Round 1:

Ch 3 – counts as 1st dc. (15 dc) in beginning loop.  Join with a slst to 3rd chain of beginning ch-3 and fasten off.  16 dc.

Round 2:

Join color B/2 with a standing dc in any stitch.  [Ch 2, skip the next stitch, dc in the next stitch] 7 times.  Ch 2, join with a slst to beginning dc.  DO NOT fasten off.  8 dc and 8 ch-2 spaces.  Your piece may cup a bit in these early rounds.

Round 3:

Ch 3 – counts as 1st dc. Dc in the same stitch as join.  [ch 3, skip the ch-2 space, (2 dc) in the next stitch] 7 times.  Ch 3, skip the last ch-2 space, join with a slst to 3rd chain of beginning ch-3. 

If changing colors (land version):  Fasten off. 16 dc and 8 ch-3 spaces.

If keeping the same color (sea version – won’t change colors until Round 6): DO NOT fasten off.  16 dc and 8 ch-3 spaces.

Round 4:

If changing colors:  Join color C with a standing dc in the first dc of any 2-dc set.

If keeping the same color: Ch 3 – counts as 1st dc.

2 dc between not in – the stitch you started in and the next stitch, dc in the next stitch.  [Ch 2, skip the next ch-3 space, dc in the next stitch, 2 dc between the stitch you just worked in and the next stitch, dc in the next stitch] 7 times.  Ch 2, skip the last ch-3 space, join with a slst to beginning dc or 3rd chain of beginning ch-3.  

If changing colors: Fasten off. 32 dc and 8 ch-2 spaces.

If keeping the same color:  DO NOT fasten off.  32 dc and 8 ch-2 spaces.

Round 5:

If changing colors: Join color D with a standing dc in the first dc of any 4-dc set.

If keeping the same color:  Ch 3 – counts as 1st dc.

*[dc betweennot in – the the stitch you just worked in and the next stitch, dc in the next dc] 3 times.  Ch 1, skip the next ch-2 space, dc in the next stitch.*  Repeat * to * 7 more times, omitting last dc on final repeat.  Join with a slst to beginning dc or 3rd ch of beginning ch-3 and fasten off.  56 dc and 8 ch-1 spaces. Your piece should be laying flatter now.

Round 6:

Join color E/3 with a slst in the 1st dc of any 7-dc-set.  *Skip the next 2 stitches, (dc, ch 1, dc, ch 2, dc, ch 1, dc) in the next stitch, skip the next 2 stitches, slst in the next stitch – shell made.  Working toward the center of your square ‘down the ladder’ of ch-spaces from prior rounds and in front of your other chains and stitches - Ch 2, skip the next ch-1 space, sc in the Round 4 ch-space, ch 1, sc in the Round 3 ch-space, ch 1, sc in the Round 2 ch-space, ch 1, sc in the skipped stitch from Round 1.  Working toward the edge of your square ‘up the ladder’ of ch-spaces from prior rounds and in front of your other chains and stitches – Ch 1, sc in the next Round 2 ch-space again, ch 1, sc in the next Round 3 ch-space again, Ch 1, sc in the next Round 4 ch-space again.  Ch 2, skip the Round 5 ch-1 space, slst in the next stitch.*  Repeat * to * 7 more times, omitting the last slst on final repeat.  Join with a slst to beginning slst and fasten off.  32 dc, 16 ch-1 spaces in shells, 8 ch-2 spaces in shells, 16 slst, 16 traveling ch-2s, 48 traveling ch-1s, and 56 scs.

Round 7:

Note: In this round you will skip all the Round 6 stitches worked up and down the ch-spaces. You will be working up and down the ch-spaces from Round 4 and Round 3 again.  There are already scs located in these spaces.  We will be working between these scs.  For easier access, you may want to separate them to expose the chain in between the scs.

Special Stitch – puff -  Insert your hook into the indicated stitch.  Pull up a loop – 2 LOOPS ON HOOK.  YO and insert hook into same stitch.  Pull up a loop – 4 LOOPS ON HOOK.  YO and insert hook into same stitch.  Pull up a loop – 6 LOOPS ON HOOK.  YO and pull through all 6 loops.  Close stitch with a chain. Closing chain does not count as a stitch for pattern purposes.

Join color F/4 with a standing sc in any ch-1 space from Round 5.  * Working toward the center of your square ‘down the ladder’ of ch-spaces from prior rounds, in front of your other chains/stitches, between the two scs already in the space – Ch 1, sc in the Round 4 ch-space, ch 1, sc in the Round 3 ch-space.  Working toward the edge of your square ‘up the ladder’ of ch-spaces from prior rounds and in front of your other chains/stitches, between the two scs already in the space – ch 1, sc in the Round 4 ch-space again, ch 1, sc in the Round 5 ch-space again.  Returning to Round 6, skipping all the stitches of the shell and working in the spaces between stitches instead -  puff between the next slst and 1st dc of shell, ch 1, puff in the next ch-1 space, ch 1, (puff, ch 2, puff) in the next ch-2 space, ch 1, puff in the next ch-1 space, ch 1, puff between the last dc of shell and the next slst.  Sc in the next ch-1 space from Round 5.*  Repeat * to * 7 more times, omitting last sc on final repeat.  Join with a slst to beginning sc and fasten off.  48 puffs, 32 ch-1s between puffs, 8 ch-2s, 40 sc, and 32 traveling ch-1s.





Round 8:

In this round you will skip all your Round 7 stitches. You will be working in the ch-spaces from Round 5 and Round 4 again, between the scs already there.  For easier access you may want to separate these scs to expose the chain.  Your square will probably start getting pretty wavy in this round and may stay that way until the last round or two of the pattern.

Working between the two scs already in the space - Join color G/5 with a standing sc in any ch-1 space from Round 5.  *Dc in the Round 4 ch-space, sc in the Round 5 ch-space again.  Working behind your Round 7 stitches and around the posts of the dcs that make up your next Round 6 shell- [Ch 2, BPsc around the next Round dc] 4 times.  Ch 2, sc in the next Round 5 ch-1 space.*  Repeat * to * 7 more times, omitting last sc on final repeat.  Join with a slst to beginning sc.  DO NOT fasten off.  8 dc, 48 sc, and 40 ch-2 spaces.

Round 9:

Special Stitch – Beginning Popcorn – beg pop – ch 3 – counts as first dc. Work 2 dc in indicated stitch or space.  Drop the loop from your hook and insert hook from front to back through the 3rd ch of beginning ch-3.  Pick up the dropped loop and pull through the ch.  Close with a ch 1 – closing ch does not count as a stitch for pattern purposes.

Special Stitch – 3 Dc Popcorn – 3dcPop - Work 3 dc in indicated stitch or space.  Drop the loop from your hook and insert hook from front to back in the first stitch of group.  Pick up the dropped loop and pull through stitch.  Close with a ch 1. Closing chain does not count as a stitch for pattern purposes.

Slst into the next stitch, beg pop in same stitch.  *Skip the next stitch, [(2 hdc) in the next space, FPhdc around the next stitch] 2 times.  (Hdc, ch 5, hdc) in the next ch-2 space.  [FPhdc around the next stitch, (2 hdc) in the next space] 2 times. Skip the next stitch, 3dcPop in the next stitch.*  Repeat * to * 7 more times, omitting last 3dcPop on final repeat.  Join with a slst to beginning 3dcPop and fasten off.  80 hdc, 32 FPdc, 8 3dcPop, and 8 ch-5 spaces.

Round 10:

Join color H/3 with a standing dc in any ch-2 space from Round 7 - located at the top of a ‘petal’.  (Ch 1, dc) in the same space – corner made.  *Returning to Round 9 – skip the ch-5 space and  the ‘hidden’ stitch immediately after, dc in the next 6 stitches.  FPdc around the next popcorn.  Dc in the next stitch – which may be hidden – hdc in the next 2 stitches, sc in the next stitch, slst in the next stitch.  Ch 3, skip the next {2 stitches, ch 5, and 2 stitches}. Pull the ch-3 behiind these skipped stitches, slst in the next stitch, sc in the next stitch, hdc in the next 2 stitches, dc in the next stitch.  FPdc around the next popcorn, dc in the next 6 stitches – the first may be hidden.  Skip the next stitch, (dc, ch 1, dc) in the next ch-2 from Round 7 – located at the top of a ‘petal ’ – corner made. *  Repeat * to * 3 more times omitting corner sequence on final repeat.  Join with a slst to beginning dc and fasten off.  26 stitches and 1 ch-3 space per side.

Round 11:

Join color I/1 with a standing dc in any corner space.  (Ch 2, dc) in same space.  *Dc in next 8 stitches, hdc in next 3 stitches, sc in next 2 stitches, (sc, ch 1, sc) in next ch-3 space, sc in next 2 stitches, hdc in next 3 stitches, dc in next 8 stitches.  (Dc, ch 2, dc) in next corner space.*  Repeat * to * 3 more times, omitting corner sequence on final repeat.  Join with a slst to beginning dc and fasten off.  30 stitches and 1 ch-1 space per side.

Round 12:

In this round we will be working through our Round 9 ch-5 spaces, threading them through the Round 7 ch-2 spaces at the top of each petal, Jacob’s Ladder style.  It is suggested that you weave these through prior to starting this round and place a stitch marker in each loop to keep them from coming undone until they are secured.

 At our corners, the ch-5 spaces will be hidden on the back of our work a few rows down.  Simply pull the ch-5 through the Round 7 ch-2 space, underneath the two dcs already in the space (photos A and B – hook in photo A shows where to pull loop through).

In the middle of your ‘sides’, they may have slipped behind your Round 10 ch-3’s.  Pull them under the ch-3 space and through the top of the Round 7 ch-2 space at the top of the petal (photos C and D).
Special Stitch – Popcorn - Work 5 dc in indicated stitch or space.  Drop the loop from your hook and insert hook from front to back in the first stitch of group.  Pick up the dropped loop and pull through stitch.  Close with a ch 1. Closing chain does not count as a stitch for pattern purposes.

Join color B/6 with a standing sc in any corner space.  *Dropping down to the corner space from Round 10, working between the 2 stitches already there and through the ch-5 loop and Round 10 corner space togethersee photo - Popcorn.  Sc in your Round 11 corner space again.  Slst in the BLO of the next 13 stitches.  Ch 2, skip the next 2 stitches, popcorn in the next ch-5 loop and the Round 11 ch-1 space together.  Ch 2, skip the next 2 stitches, slst in the BLO of the next 13 stitches.  Sc in the next corner space.*  Repeat * to * 3 more times, omitting last sc on final repeat.  Join with a slst to beginning sc and fasten off.  26 slst, 2 ch-2s, and 1 popcorn per side; 1 popcorn and 2 sc per corner.Round 13:

In this round, we will be skipping all the Round 12 stitches and chains except for the popcorns and working into the skipped FLOs and stitches from Round 11.  Be sure you are working in front of, not over, your Round 12 stitches and chains.

Join color I/1 with a standing FPtr around any corner popcorn.  Ch 2, FPtr around the same popcorn -corner made.  *Working in the skipped FLOs from Round 11 – tr in the next 3 FLOs, dc in the next 10 FLOs.  Dc in both loops of the next 2 stitches.  Returning to Round 12 - FPsc around the next popcorn.  Returning to Round 11 -  dc in both loops of the next 2 stitches, dc in the next 10 FLOs, tr in the next 3 FLOs. Returning to Round 12 – (FPtr, ch 2, FPtr) around the next corner popcorn – corner made.*   Repeat * to * 3 more times omitting corner sequence on final repeat.  Join with a slst to beginning FPtr and fasten off.  33 stitches per side.

Round 14:

Join color A/4 with a standing hdc in any corner space. (Hdc, ch 2, 2 hdc) in same space.  Skip the first ‘hidden’ stitch, hdc in each stitch across.  (2 hdc, ch 2, 2 hdc) in the next corner space.  Repeat * to * 3 more times omitting corner sequence on final repeat.  Join with a slst to beginning hdc, or alternately use an invisible join as we will be back posting in the next round. Fasten off.  36 stitches per side.

Round 15:

Join color G/3 with a standing hdc in any corner space.  (Ch 2, hdc) in same space.  *BPhdc in each stitch across.  (Hdc, ch 2, hdc) in next corner space.*   Repeat * to * 3 more times omitting corner sequence on final repeat.  Join with a slst to beginning hdc.  DO NOT fasten off.  38 stitches per side.

Round 16:

Suggested – measure your square here to see how your size is.  If you feel you are running small, increase this round to dcs.  If you increase to dcs from hdcs, you will ch-5 rather than 4 at the beginning of the round and will join in the 3rd chain rather than the 2nd chain when ending the round.

Slst into the next corner space.  Ch 4 – counts as first hdc and ch-2 space. Hdc in same space.  *Hdc in each stitch across.  (Hdc, ch 2, hdc) in next corner space.* Repeat * to * 3 more times omitting corner sequence on final repeat.  Join with a slst to 2nd ch of beginning ch-4 and fasten off.    40 stitches per side.









Please Remember:

This pattern was written and designed by me, Lisa Mauser, for This Little Hook of Mine. I am happy to share it with you, but this pattern belongs to me and I retain all rights.  You may not distribute, sell, or share this pattern, or any parts of it.  If you wish to share the pattern, please refer the party you are sharing it with to the original pattern link. Though this pattern has been tested, it is not perfect.  If you find a mistake, please let me know in the comments below or through the contact me button and I will fix it.

Thank you for respecting my property.  I really hope you enjoyed the pattern!

Comments

  1. You are wonderfully creative and talented! Thank you for sharing this series, I'll be watching for your posts :)

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    Replies
    1. Thank you for your kind words - your encouragement is greatly appreciated. I hope you enjoy the series!!

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  2. Thank you so much for sharing your talent... this is gorgeous!

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