End of My Rope

End of My Rope


Hello!  I am excited to share this pattern with you....

One of the things I love the most about crocheting is how tactile it is; texture I can run my fingers over, buttons I can fiddle with, loops I can poke my fingers into, and fringe that I can play with.  Can we just take a moment to say hooray for textiles!

As a crochet designer, I love taking these tactile elements and putting them together in new or unusual ways.  This square accomplishes that for me.  I have wanted to create a project with 'internal' fringe for a while - something that incorporates this tactile element into the actual block, rather than relegating it to the outside edge.  This block plays on a nautical theme, with a center motif that features frayed fringe - designed to look like a frayed rope.  This square truly takes the simplest of crochet stitches and attempts to put them together in a new and different way.  It is written to be made multi-color or solid, and even though I personally love the look of the fringe, it can also be made without it.  Enjoy!  

Before you begin:
This pattern was written and designed by me, Lisa Mauser, for This Little Hook of Mine. I am happy to share it with you, but this pattern belongs to me and I retain all rights.  You may not distribute, sell, or share this pattern, or any parts of it.  If you wish to share the pattern, please refer the party you are sharing it with to the original pattern link.

Though this pattern has been tested, it is not perfect.  If you find a mistake, please let me know in the comments below or through the contact me button and I will fix it.

Thank you for respecting my property.  I really hope you enjoy the pattern.  I you prefer a printable PDF, you may download one for a small fee through my Ravelry account by clicking here.

Materials and Project Basics:

·       Size H/5 mm crochet hook;
·       Tapestry needle for weaving in ends;
·       Worsted weight yarns in the brand/color of your choosing.  I used the following colors:

Color A – Denim – Hobby Lobby I Love This Yarn!
Color B – Linen – Hobby Lobby I Love This Yarn!
Color C – Silver Blue – Vanna’s Choice
Color D – Grey -Vanna’s Choice

Size and Gauge:

·       Using an H size/5 mm hook I obtained a 12” square

Basic Terms/Abbreviations Used (US):

ch – chain                                                    dc – double crochet                            
yo – yarn over                                            trc – triple crochet             
slst – slip stitch                                           FLO – front loop only
sc – single crochet                                      BLO – back loop only
hdc – half double crochet                          BPdc – back post double crochet

For ease of reference, special stitches, are defined in the rounds they are used in.

Beginning Loop:

With color A, ch 5.  Join with slst to beginning ch – beginning loop made.  DO NOT fasten off.

Round 1:

Ch 2 - counts as 1st hdc.  (2 hdc) in beginning loop.  (Ch 2, 3 hdc in beginning loop) 3 times.  Ch 2 and join with slst to beginning ch-2.  DO NOT fasten off.

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Round 2:

Ch 2 - counts as 1st hdc.  Hdc in next 2 stitches.  *(2 hdc, ch 1, 2 hdc) in next corner space.  Hdc in the next 3 stitches*.  Repeat * to * 3 times.  (2 hdc, ch 1, 2 hdc) in last corner space.  Join with slst to beginning ch-2. If you are changing colors, fasten off.  7 stitches per side.

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Round 3:

If working in same color, slst into the next corner space.  Ch 1, sc in same space - this is your beginning sc.
If changing color, join color with B a standing sc in any corner space.
(Ch 1, sc) in the same corner.  *Slst in FLO of next 7 stitches.  (Sc, ch 1, sc) in the next corner space*.  Repeat * to * 3 more times, eliminating corner sequence on final repeat.  Join with a slst to beginning sc. If you are changing colors, fasten off.  7 slst and 2 scs per side for a total of 9 stitches.

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A QUICK NOTE ABOUT YOUR FRONT AND BACK LOOPS AT THIS POINT:


After Round 3 (and subsequent slst rounds) you will have two rows of loops behind your work (see photo).  The front loops (which contain your slsts) and the back loops, which are completely unworked.   In order to achieve a clean line, we will be working in the FLOs that already contain your slip stitches, not the unworked BLOs.  Make sure you are working in the correct loops.

Round 4:
If working in same color, slst into the next corner space and ch 4 - counts as 1st hdc and ch-2.
If changing color, join color C with a standing hdc in any corner space.  Ch 2.
Hdc in same corner space.  *Hdc in 1st stitch of side.  You should have 7 FLOs that contain slsts per side. Refer to photos and explanation above.  Hdc in each of these loops.  Hdc in the last stitch before the corner.  Hdc, ch 2, hdc in the next corner space*. Repeat * to * 3 times, eliminating corner sequence on final repeat. 
If you are working in the same color, join with a slst to 2nd ch of beginning ch-4.  You should have 11 stitches per side.
If you are changing color, join with a slst to beginning hdc and fasten off.  You should have 11 stitches per side.
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Round 5:
Note:  In this round we will begin making the chain loops that will be woven together after Round 10.  In this and subsequent chain rounds, don’t make the chains too tight. By the same token, don’t make them too loose and sloppy - they will show on the front of your work. Nice even chains please!
If working in same color, slst into the next corner space.  Ch 1, sc in same space - this is your beginning sc.
If changing color, join color B with a standing sc in any corner space.
Ch 1, sc in same corner space.  *Slst in the FLO of the first 2 stitches, ch 7, slst in the FLO of the next 7 stitches.  Ch 7, slst in the FLO of the last 2 before the corner.  (Sc, ch 1, sc) in the next corner space*. Repeat * to * 3 more times, eliminating the corner sequence on the final repeat.  Join with a slst to your beginning sc.   If you are changing colors, fasten off.
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Round 6:
Note:  You will be working behind your chain loops in this round – keep them pushed forward and in front of your work.  When you come to an FLO that contains a chain, work in the FLO to the right of the chain (see photo).

If working in same color, slst into the next corner space and ch 4 - counts as 1st hdc and ch-2.
If changing color, join color D with a standing hdc in any corner space.  Ch 2.
Hdc in same corner space.  *Hdc in 1st stitch of side.  You should have 11 FLOs that contain slsts per side -  hdc in each of these loops.  Hdc in the last stitch before the corner.  (Hdc, ch 2, hdc) in the next corner space*. Repeat * to * 3 times, eliminating corner sequence on final repeat. 
If you are working in the same color, join with a slst to the 2nd ch of beginning ch-4.  You should have 15 stitches per side.
If you are changing color, join with a slst to beginning hdc and fasten off. You should have 15 stitches per side.
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Round 7:
If working in same color, slst into the next corner space.  Ch 1, sc in same space - this is your beginning sc.
If changing color, join color B with a standing sc in any corner space.
Ch 1, sc in same corner space. *Slst in the FLO of the first 7 stitches.  Ch 8, Skip the next stitch,  slst in the FLO of the last 7 before the corner.  (Sc, ch 1, sc) in next corner space*.  Repeat * to * 3 more times, eliminating the corner sequence on the final repeat.  Join with a slst to your beginning sc.   If you are changing colors, fasten off.
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Round 8:
Note:  You will be working behind your chain loops in this round – keep them pushed forward and in front of your work.  When you come to an FLO that contains a chain, work in the FLO to the right of the chain - see photo in Round 6.
If working in same color, slst into the next corner space and ch 4 - counts as 1st hdc and ch-2.
If changing color, join color C with a standing hdc in any corner space.  Ch 2.
Hdc in same corner space.  *Hdc in 1st stitch of side.  Hdc in the 1st 7 FLOs that contain slsts. Hdc in the BLO of the next skipped stitch.    Hdc in the next 7 FLOs that contain slsts.  Hdc in the last stitch before the corner.  (Hdc, ch 2, hdc) in the next corner space*. Repeat * to * 3 times, eliminating corner sequence on final repeat. 
If you are working in the same color, join with a slst to 2nd ch of beginning ch-4.  You should have 19 stitches per side.
If you are changing color, join with a slst to beginning hdc and fasten off. You should have 19 stitches per side.
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Round 9:
If working in same color, slst into the next corner space.  Ch 1, sc in same space - this is your beginning sc.
If changing color, join color B with a standing sc in any corner space.
Ch 1, sc in the same corner space.  *Slst in the FLO of the first 7 stitches, ch 7, slst in the FLO of the next 5 stitches.  Ch 7, slst in the FLO of the last 7 before the corner.  (Sc, ch 1, sc) in the next corner space*.  Repeat * to * 3 more times, eliminating the corner sequence on the final repeat.  Join with a slst to your beginning sc.   If you are changing colors, fasten off.
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Round 10:
Note:  You will be working behind your chain loops in this round – keep them pushed forward and in front of your work.  When you come to an FLO that contains a chain, work in the FLO to the right of the chain (see photo in Round 6).
If working in same color, slst into the next corner space and ch 4 - counts as 1st hdc and ch-2.
If changing color, join color D with a standing hdc in any corner space.  Ch 2.
Hdc in same corner space.  *Hdc in 1st stitch of side.  You should have 19 FLOs that contain slsts -  hdc in each of these loops.  Hdc in the last stitch before the corner.  (Hdc, ch 2, hdc) in the next corner space*. Repeat * to * 3 times, eliminating corner sequence on final repeat. 
If you are working in the same color, join with a slst to 2nd ch of beginning ch-4.  You should have 23 stitches per side.
If you are changing color, join with a slst to beginning hdc and fasten off. You should have 23 stitches per side.
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Before beginning this next round, familiarize yourself with these ‘HOW TO WEAVE YOUR LOOPS’ instructions:
HOW TO WEAVE YOUR LOOPS:

You will need to weave your loops together to form a braided ‘rope’ motif.  You can either weave them together after Round 10, or as-you-go in Round 11.  Weave them together as follows: 
A.          Place your bottom left loop over the top of your center loop;
B.          Place your bottom right loop over the top of your center loop;
C.          Pull your top left and top right loops through your center loop;
D.          Pull your top right loop through your top left loop.
You will be left with two remaining smaller loops.  In round 11, we will work through these ‘remaining’ loops to secure our rope motifs.





Round 11:
If working in same color, slst into the next corner space.  Ch 1, sc in same space -this is your beginning SC.
If changing color, join color B with a standing sc in any corner space.
Ch 1, sc in same corner space.  *Skip the first ‘hidden’ stitch and sc in the next 9.  Weave your loops according to instructions.  Sc through the first remaining loop and next stitch – stitch through these together.  Sc in the next 2 stitches.  Sc through the second remaining loop and next stitch – stitch through these together.  Sc in the last 9 stitches of the side.  (Sc, ch 1, sc) in the next corner space*.    Repeat from * to * 3 times, eliminating corner sequence on final repeat. Join with a slst to your beginning sc.   If you are changing colors fasten off.  24 stitches per side.
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Round 12:
If working in the same color, slst into the next corner space.  Ch 3 - counts as 1st dc.
If you are changing colors, join color A with a standing dc in any corner space. 
(Dc, ch 1, 2 dc) in same space.  *BPdc in the next 10 stitches.  Hdc in the BLO of the next 4.  BPdc in the last 10 stitches before the corner. (2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc) in next corner space*. Repeat * to * 3 more times, eliminating the corner sequence on final repeat. 
If you are working in the same color, join with a slst to top of beginning ch-3.  You should have 28 stitches per side.
If you are changing colors, join with a slst to beginning dc and fasten off.  You should have 28 stitches per side.
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Round 13:
If working in the same color, slst into the next dc.  Slst into the next corner space.  Ch 1, sc in same space - this is your beginning SC.
If you are changing colors, join color C with a standing sc in any corner space.
Ch 1, sc in same corner space.  *Skip the first ‘hidden’ stitch, sc in the next 27 stitches.  (Sc, ch 1, sc) in the next corner space*.  Repeat * to * 3 more times, eliminating the corner sequence on the final repeat.  Join with a slst to beginning sc.  If you are changing colors, fasten off.  You should have 29 stitches per side.  Count is important here for the pattern in the next round.
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Round 14:
Special Stitch – puff stitch:  In this round you will be making ‘puff’ stitches.  Do this by inserting your hook into the indicated stitch.  Pull up a loop – 2 LOOPS ON HOOK.  YO and insert hook into same stitch.  Pull up a loop – 4 LOOPS ON HOOK.  YO and insert hook into same stitch.  Pull up a loop – 6 LOOPS ON HOOK.  YO and pull through all 6 loops.  Close stitch with a chain.  This will be the top of your puff stitch in future rounds.  For pattern purposes, this final ch-1 does not count as the ch-1 space between puffs.
If you are working in the same color, slst into the next corner space.  Ch 1, puff in the same corner space.
If you are changing colors, join color B with a puff in any corner space.
Ch 1, puff in the same corner space.  Ch 1 and Skip the first ‘hidden’ stitch. [Puff in the next stitch, ch 1, skip the next stitch] 14 times.  (Puff, ch 1, Puff) in the next corner space*.  Repeat * to * 3 times, eliminating the corner sequence on final repeat.  Join with a slst to beginning puff.  If you are changing colors, fasten off.  Note – even on my color changing square, I worked the next round in the same color.
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Round 15:
In this round you will be working into the top of your puff stitches.  It is important to understand what is meant by the 'top of your puff.'  This photo is shared to help you identify which stitch you should be crocheting into in the following round:

If working in the same color, slst into the next corner space.  Ch 1, sc in the same corner space - this is your beginning sc.
If changing color, join color of your choice with a standing sc in any corner space - This is your beginning sc.  Note - I did not change colors for this round.
Ch 1, sc in same corner space.  *[Sc in top of next puff, sc in the next ch-1 space] 8 times.  Sc in the same ch-1 space as your last stitch - increase made.  [Sc in the top of the next puff, sc in the next ch-1 space] 7 times.  Sc in the last puff before the corner space.  (Sc, ch 1, sc) in next corner space*.  Repeat * to * 3 times, eliminating the corner sequence on the final repeat.  Join with a slst to beginning sc.  If you are changing colors, fasten off.  Note – even on my color changing square, I worked the next round in the same color.
You should have 34 per side.  Make sure you have the right count and worked your increases as it is important for the pattern in the next round.
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Round 16:
If working in the same color, slst into the next corner space.  Ch 4 - counts as 1st dc and ch-1 space.  Dc in same corner space.
If you are changing color, join color of your choice - note I did not change colors for this round - with a standing dc in any corner space.  Ch 1, dc in same space.
*Dc in 1st hidden stitch.  Work the Cross Cable pattern as follows: [Skip one stitch, dc in the next 3.  Enclosing the group of 3 dcs just made, yo and insert your hook into the skipped stitch.  Pull up a loop so it is even with the other dcs.  Yo and pull through two loops, yo pull through two loops] 8 times. Dc in the last stitch before the corner.  (Dc, ch 1, dc) in the next corner space*.  Repeat * to * 3 times, eliminating corner sequence on final repeat. 
If working in the same color, join with a slst to 3rd ch of beginning ch-4.
If changing colors, join with a slst to the beginning dc and fasten off.  
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Round 17:
If working in the same color, slst into the next corner space.  Ch 1, sc in the same corner space - this is your beginning sc.
If changing color, join color C with a standing sc in any corner space.  This is your beginning sc.
(Sc, ch 1, 2 sc) in same space.  *Skip the first ‘hidden’ stitch and sc in next 35. (2 sc, ch 1, 2 sc) in next corner space*.  Repeat * to * 3 times, eliminating corner sequence on final repeat.  Join with a slst to beginning sc.  If you are changing colors, fasten off.  You should have 39 stitches per side.
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Round 18:
Note:  Because everyone’s tension is different, you may want to measure your square before you begin this round.  If you think this round may put you over, work it in scs instead of hdcs, or skip it all together.  Also – if you have been working with one color and would like to add a little more texture at the edge, try working this in BPhdcs.  Work your corners the same and just back post around the stitches instead of working into them!
If working in the same color, slst into the next sc.  Slst into the next corner space.  Ch 4 - counts as 1st hdc and CH-2 space.  Hdc in same space.
If changing color, join color A with a standing hdc in any corner space.  Ch 2, hdc in same space.
*Hdc in the first ‘hidden’ stitch and in the next 38 stitches.  (Hdc, ch 2, hdc) in the next corner space*.  Repeat * to * 3 more times, eliminating corner sequence on final repeat. 
If you have been working with the same color, join with a slst to second chain of beginning ch-2 and fasten off at last!
If you changed colors, join with a slst to beginning hdc and fasten off.  You are done!
You should have 41 stitches per side.
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OPTIONAL FRAYED ENDS:
After Round 12, at the end of each ‘rope’ motif, we left 4 unworked FLOs.  Using a 3” piece of yarn in the same color as your ‘rope’ motif, add a ‘fringe’ in each of these FLOs (see photos and step-by-steps).  Trim your ends down to 1 ½” or so, and fray the yarn to secure in place and create an unraveled texture.
·       Cut 3” pieces of yarn in the same color as your rope motif;
·       Fold in half.  Pull through FLO from top to bottom (see photo);
·       Tuck your ends through the ‘loop’ formed by the fold (see photo);
·       Pull until tight, being careful to pull nice and firm without stretching your front loops out of shape.
·       Trim to about 1 ½“ and fray.  Note – it is easiest to fray from the base of the strand up.

YOU ARE DONE!  Weave in your ends and enjoy!!


  


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