Sweater Weather

Sweater Weather

For most of us, January represents the heart of winter and COLD weather!  While some might not enjoy the cold, it is hard to deny its importance to our beloved hobby. Winter is the perfect time to showcase all the beautiful items you've created through the years.  Scarfs, hats, mittens, sweaters, and blankets all have a chance to shine on those long cold days; and those long cold nights create the perfect atmosphere for staying in to knit or crochet.

My new square, Sweater Weather, is a salute to the symbiotic relationship our hobby and inclement weather share. It is designed to reflect all things winter:  ice crystals, a flower after the first frost, pine needles in the snow, and a star on a cold clear night.  It also represents all things cozy and warm, like Nordic knits and the ribbing on a pair of hand-made mittens.  The result is a dense square that attempts to pay tribute to the joys of sweater weather.  I hope you enjoy!

I you prefer a printable PDF with full round-by-round photos, you may download one for a small fee through on Ravelry by clicking here.

Before you begin:

This pattern was written and designed by me, Lisa Mauser, for This Little Hook of Mine. I am happy to share it with you, but this pattern belongs to me and I retain all rights.  You may not distribute, sell, or share this pattern, or any parts of it.  If you wish to share the pattern, please refer the party you are sharing it with to the original pattern link.

Though this pattern has been tested, it is not perfect.  If you find a mistake, please let me know in the comments below or through the contact me button and I will fix it.

Thank you for respecting my property.  I really hope you enjoy the pattern. 

Materials:

·       Size H/5 mm crochet hook;

·       Tapestry needle for weaving in ends;

·       Worsted weight yarns in the brand/color of your choosing.  I used the following colors (True North pictured at end, North Pole pictured above):

True North:

A -         Sea Blue – HLILTY

B -         Dark Denim – HLILTY

C -         Linen – HLILTY

D -         Antique Teal – HLILTY

E -         Dusty Green – VC

F -          Sungold – HLILTY

North Pole:

1 -         Soft Pink – YB

2 -         Gray Mist – HLILTY

3 -         Ivory – HLILTY

4 -         Mid Green - HLILTY

HLILTY = Hobby Lobby I Love this Yarn

VC = Lion Brand Vanna’s Choice

YB = Yarn Bee Soft & Sleek

Size and Gauge:

·       Using an H size hook I obtained a 12” square.  Please note – due to the amount of posting in this pattern, those with tight tensions may want to go up a hook size.

Basic Terms/Abbreviations Used (US):

ch – chain                                                                FPdc –  front post double crochet 
yo – yarn over                                                          FPtr –  front post triple crochet 
slst – slip stitch                                                         BPdc – back post double crochet
sc – single crochet                                                   FLO – front loop only
hdc – half double crochet                                      BLO – back loop only            
dc – double crochet                                                 BPhdc – back post half double crochet
tr – triple crochet                                                     BPdc – back post double crochet
FPsc – front post single crochet                            Sc dec – single crochet decrease
FPhdc – front post half double crochet

For ease of reference special stitches are defined in the rounds they are used in.

Round 1 - Beginning Loop:

With color A/1, ch 4.  Join with slst to beginning chain – beginning loop made.

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Round 2:

Ch 4 – counts as beginning dc and ch-1.  [ Dc in the center loop, ch 1] 7 times.  Join with a slst to the 3^rd chain of the beginning ch-4.  Do not fasten off.  8 dc and 8 ch-1 spaces.

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Round 3:

Ch 3 – counts as beginning dc.  BPdc around the ch-3 from Round 2 you made your join in.  FPdc around the same ch.  [(FPdc, BPdc, FPdc) around the next stitch, skip the next ch-1 space] 7 times.  Join with a slst to beginning ch-3.  Fasten off.  24 stitches. 

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Round 4:

Join color B/2 with a standing hdc in any BPdc from the previous round.  (Hdc, ch 1, 2 hdc) in the same stitch.  [Skip the next 2 stitches, (2 hdc, ch1, 2 hdc) in the next stitch] 7 times.  Skip the last 2 stitches and join with a slst to beginning hdc.  Fasten off. 32 hdc and 8 ch-1 spaces. 

Note:  Between your (2 hdc, ch 1, 2 hdc) sets, you will have a gap.  This gap is located above your 2 skipped FPdcs.  We will work into these gaps in Rounds 6 and 7.  You may want to place a stitch marker in one of these gaps now so that you can easily identify them when we get to that round.  Refer to photo.

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Round 5:

Join color A/1 with a standing sc in any ch-1 space.  (Ch1, sc) in same space as join.  Ch 2, FPdc around both posts of the next 2 skipped Round 3 FPdcs together. [Ch 2.  (Sc, ch 1, sc) in next ch-1 space.  Ch 2.  FPdc around both posts of the next 2 skipped Round 3 FPdcs together] 7 times.  Ch 2 and join with a slst to beginning standing sc.  Fasten off.  16 scs, 8 FPdcs, 8 ch-1 spaces and 16 ch-2 spaces.

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Round 6:

Join color C/3 with a standing sc in any ch-1 space.  Ch 2.  Sc in the next Round 3 ch-1 space –  this space is located directly below the stitch you just made and will already contain hdcs from Round 4 – work between these hdcs and in front of - not over - your Round 4 and 5 stitches. Ch 2, sc in same space as beginning sc.  [Ch 2.  Working behind your Round 5 stitches – sc in the next ‘gap’ between your Round 4 hdcs – this is the gap we identified at the end of Round 4.  Ch 2, sc in the next Round 5 ch-1 space.  Ch 2.  Sc in the next Round 3 ch-1 space - this space is located directly below the stitch you just made and will already contain hdcs from Round 4 – work between these hdcs and in front of - not over - your Round 4 and 5 stitches.  Ch 2, sc in the same Round 5 ch-1 space you made your last sc in] 7 times.  Ch 2, Working behind your Round 5 stitches – sc in the next ‘gap’ between your Round 4 hdcs.  Ch 2 and join with a slst to your beginning sc.  Fasten off.  32 scs and 32 ch-2 spaces.

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Round 7:

Join color D/1 with a standing hdc in any Round 5 ch-1 space – you will join between the Round 6 scs already there.  (Dc, ch 2, dc, hdc) in same space. [Ch 2.  Working behind your Round 6 stitches and into the same Round 4 gap we worked into last round, sc on the right side of the Round 6 sc already there, ch 2, sc on the left side of the Round 6 sc already there.  Ch 2.  (Hdc, dc, ch 2, dc, hdc) in the next Round 5 ch-1 space - between the Round 6 scs already there] 7 times. Ch 2.  Working behind your Round 6 stitches and into the same Round 4 gap we worked into in the prior round, sc on the right side of the Round 6 sc already there, ch 2, sc on the left side of the Round 6 sc already there.  Ch 2.   Join with a slst to beginning standing hdc and fasten off.  48 stitches and 32 ch-2 spaces.

Note:  in the next round we will refer to the (hdc, dc, ch 2, dc, hdc) sets as ‘petals.’  Between petals you have 3 sets of ch-2 spaces – we will be working our corners into the middle ch-2 space between these petals.  Take a moment to identify this space – see photo above right – depicted from back side.

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Round 8:

Note:  Your square may get a bit unwieldy or wavy over the next several rounds.  Do not worry, it should all flatten out by the end.

Join color E/4 with a standing hdc in any middle ch-2 space between petals – as defined at the end of Round 7.  (2 dc, tr, ch 1, tr, 2 dc, hdc) in the same space – corner made.  *Skip the next ch-2 space and FPsc around the next two stitches together.  Sc in the next ch-2 space.  FPsc around the next two stitches together. Sc in the next ch-2 space.  Ch 8.  Skip the next ‘middle’ ch-2 space, sc in the next ch-2 space. FPsc around the next 2 stitches together.  Sc in the next ch-2 space.  FPsc around the next two stitches together.  Skip the next ch- 2 space, (hdc, 2 dc, tr, ch 1, tr, 2 dc, hdc) in the next ‘middle’ ch-2 space between petals – corner made*.  Repeat * to * 3 more times omitting corner sequence on final repeat.  Join with a slst to beginning hdc and fasten off.  Pull your ch- 8 spaces through the skipped Round 7 ch-2 spaces directly under them - ‘jacob’s ladder’ style. 16 stitches and 4 ch-8 spaces per side.

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Round 9:

Join color F/3 with a standing hdc in any ch-1 corner space.  (Hdc, ch 2, 2 hdc) in same space.  *Ch 1 and skip the 1^st ‘hidden’ stitch of side.  Hdc in the next 3 stitches, ch 1, skip the next stitch, hdc in the next 3 stitches.  Ch 8, skip the next ‘jacob’s ladder’ ch-8 loop.  Being careful not to miss the first stitch after the ch-8 - hdc in the next 3 stitches, ch 1, skip the next stitch, hdc in the next 3 stitches.  Ch 1 and skip the last stitch of side.  (2 hdc, ch 2, 2 hdc) in the next corner space*.  Repeat * to * 3 times, omitting corner sequence on final repeat.  Join with a slst to beginning hdc and fasten off.  Pull your ch- 8 spaces through the ch-8 spaces from the previous round - ‘jacob’s ladder’ style.  20 stitches per side including ch-1 spaces, plus 1 ch-8 per side.

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Round 10:

Special stitch for this round and next – Long sc: Insert hook in indicated stitch, pull up a loop to the height of your working round, yo and pull through both loops on hook.

Join color E/4 with a standing sc in any corner space.  (Sc, ch 2, 2 sc) in same space as join.  *Ch-1 and skip the 1^st ‘hidden’ stitch of side. [Sc in the next stitch.  Working over the next ch- 1 space – long sc in next skipped stitch from Round 8.  Sc in the next stitch of Round 9 – which may be hidden by the long sc just made. Ch 1, skip the next stitch] twice.  Sc in the next stitch. (Sc, ch 6, sc) in the next ch- 8 space – make your scs on each side of your ‘jacob’s ladder’ loop, not in the pulled loop itself. It may be easier to do this with the chains separated.  You can weave them again at the end of the round.  Sc in the next stitch – which may be hard to see. Ch 1 and skip the next stitch.  [Sc in the next stitch.  Working over the next ch-1 space, long sc in the next skipped stitch from Round 8.  Sc in the next stitch of Round 9 - which may be hidden by the long sc just made.  Ch 1 and skip the next stitch] twice.  (2 sc, ch 2, 2 sc) in the next corner space*.  Repeat * to * 3 times, omitting corner sequence on final repeat.  Join with a slst to beginning sc and fasten off.  Pull your ch- 6 spaces through the ch-8 spaces from the previous round - ‘jacob’s ladder’ style.  

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Round 11:

As in the prior round, work your Long scs over the ch-1 space, not in front of it.

Join color D/1 with a standing sc in any corner space.  (ch1, sc) in same space as join.  *Skip the first ‘hidden’ stitch of side, sc in the next. Sc in the next ch-1 space. [Sc in the next 3 stitches, long sc in the next skipped stitch from Round 9] twice.  Sc in the next stitch.  Skip the next stitch and the ch-6 space.  Working behind your ch-6 space, ch 1.  Skip the first stitch after your ch-6 space, sc in the next. [Long sc in the next skipped stitch from Round 9, sc in the next 3 stitches] twice.  Sc in the next ch-1 space, sc in the next stitch.  Skip the last stitch before the corner. (Sc, ch 1, sc) in the next corner space*.  Repeat * to * 3 times, omitting corner sequence on final repeat.  Join with a slst to beginning sc and fasten off.  25 stitches per side including ch-1 spaces.

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Round 12:

Join color C/3 with a standing hdc in any corner space.  (Ch 2, hdc) in same space as join.  *BPhdc in the next 12 stitches.  Slst in the top of the ch-6 from Round 10 – make sure all the loops of your ladder are pulled together before doing this.  BPhdc in the next 12 stitches. (Hdc, ch 2, hdc) in the next corner space*.  Repeat * to * 3 times, omitting corner sequence on final repeat. Join with a slst to beginning hdc.  Fasten off. 27 stitches per side. 

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Round 13:

In this round we will be crocheting into the 3^rd Loop of our stitches.  If you are unfamiliar with this loop, please refer to photo below.  Hook is working in a 3^rd loop and the stitch marker is showing location of next 3^rd loop.

Join color B/2 with a standing hdc in any corner space. (Ch 2, hdc) in same stitch as join.  *Hdc in the 3^rd Loop of the next 13 stitches.  FPhdc around the next stitch – which should be the slst made into the top of your ‘jacob’s ladder.’  Hdc in the 3^rd Loop of the last 13 stitches of the side.  (Hdc, ch 2, hdc) in the next corner space*.  Repeat * to * 3 more times, omitting corner sequence on final repeat.  Join with a slst to beginning hdc.  DO NOT fasten off. 29 stitches per side. 

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Round 14:

This is not a difficult round, but it can be tricky.  Take your time with it and pay close attention to your stitch anatomy to ensure you are posting around the correct stitches. It may feel as though you are skipping a stitch.

Slst into the next corner space.  Ch 4 – counts as 1^st hdc and ch-2 space.  Hdc in the same corner space.  *FPhdc around the first stitch of side. [Hdc in the next stitch, FPhdc around the next] 14 times.  (Hdc, ch 2, hdc) in the next corner space*.  Repeat from * to * 3 times, omitting corner sequence on final repeat. Join in the 2nd ch of the beginning ch-4.  DO NOT fasten off.  31 stitches per side. 

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Round 15:

Slst into the next corner space.  Ch 4 – counts as 1^st hdc and ch-2 space. Hdc in same corner space. *Hdc in the the 1^st stitch of side. [FPhdc around next stitch, hdc in the next stitch] 15 times.  (Hdc, ch 2, hdc) in the next corner space*.  Repeat from * to * 3 times, omitting corner sequence on final repeat.  Join with a slst to  the 2^nd ch of the beginning ch-4.  Fasten off.  33 stitches per side.

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Round 16:

Join color C/3 with a standing sc in any corner space.  (Ch 2, sc) in same space as join.  *Skip the 1^st ‘hidden’ stitch, sc in each stitch across.  (Sc, ch 2, sc) in next corner space*.  Repeat * to * 3 times, omitting corner sequence on final repeat.  Join with a slst to beginning sc.  Fasten off.  34 stitches per side.

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Round 17:

In this round we will be crocheting into the 3^rd Loop of our stitches, just like we did in Round 13.

Join color D/1 with a standing sc in any corner space. (Ch 2, sc) in same corner space.  *Skip the 1^st ‘hidden’ stitch, sc in the 3^rd Loop of each stitch across.  (Sc, ch 2, sc) in the next corner space*.  Repeat * to * 3 times, omitting corner sequence on final repeat.  Join with a slst to beginning sc.  Fasten off.  35 stitches per side.

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Round 18:

Join color F/4 with a standing dc in any corner space.  (Dc, ch 1, 2 dc) in the same corner space as join.  *BPdc in the first 17 stitches.  FPtr around the 8^th FPdc from Round 15 – this will be the FPdc that runs all the way down to your Jacob’s Ladder.  Skip the next stitch of Round 17 – located directly behind the FPtr just made.  BPdc in the last 17 stitches of the side.  (2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc) in the next corner space*.  Repeat * to * 3 more times, omitting corner sequence on final repeat.  Join with a slst to beginning dc.  Fasten off.  39 stitches per side.

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Round 19:

Join color A/3 with a standing hdc in any corner space.  (Ch 2, hdc) in the same corner space as join.  *Sc dec over the first 2 stiches of side.  Sc in the next 35 stitches.  Sc dec over the last 2 stitches of side.  (Hdc, ch 2, hdc) in the next corner space*.  Repeat * to * 3 more times, omitting corner sequence on final repeat.  Join with a slst to beginning standing hdc.  Fasten off.  39 stitches per side.

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Round 20:

Join color B/1 with a standing hdc in any corner space.  (Ch 2, hdc) in same corner space as join. *BPhdc around each stitch of the side.  (Hdc, ch 2, hdc) in the next corner space*.  Repeat * to * 3 more times, omitting corner sequence on final repeat.  Join with a slst to beginning standing hdc.  Fasten off. 41 stitches per side.