Stille Nacht

Stille Nacht

After a long hiatus, I am thrilled to be able to share another 12" pattern with you.  Stille Nacht is being released just in time for Christmas.  Though it features some motifs that can be interpreted as flowers, it none the less reminded me of the still starry nights of winter, the peacefulness of gently falling snow, and the beauty of winter this happy holy season - thus the name, Stille Nacht or Silent Night.  Don't blame me if you hum the song while making it - lol!

Please note - the pattern is posted below for free.  You can also download a PDF of the pattern for  a nominal fee through my Ravelry store, HERE.  

As always - I had an awesome group of testers on this project.  Special thanks to the following Ravelry members:

Skyhookdesigns

JustJilly2

koernerklaus

madaboutpooh

ACrochetWitch

I appreciate the time and effort they put into this project more than words can say.

Enjoy the pattern!

-Lisa

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Materials:

·       Size H/5 mm crochet hook;
·       Tapestry needle for weaving in ends;
·       Worsted weight yarns in the brand/color of your choice. 

I used the following colors – note, for pattern purposes, if color numbers diverge in a round, Celeste colorway will be listed first:

	Celeste (photo above)	Aurora (photo end)
A	Linen – HLILTY	Linen – HLILTY
B	Dark Denim - HLILTY	Antique Teal - HLILTY
C	Sea Blue – HLILTY	Sea Blue – HLILTY
D	Antique Teal - HLILTY	Dark Denim - HLILTY
E	Glacier - HLILTY	Dusty Green - VC
F	Light Blue - YB	Sungold - HLILTY

HLILTY = Hobby Lobby I Love this Yarn
VC = Lion Brand Vanna’s Choice
YB = Yarn Bee

Hook Size/Guage:

Using an H size hook I was able to obtain a 12” square.

Basic Terms/Abbreviations Used (US):

ch – chain                                                   BPsc – back post single crochet

yo – yarn over                                            FPhdc  – front post half double crochet
slst – slip stitch                                           BPhdc – back post half double crochet             
sc – single crochet                                      FPdc – front post double crochet
hdc – half double crochet                           BPdc – back post double crochet
dc – double crochet                                    BPtr – back post triple
tr – triple crochet                                        FLO – front loop only
FPsc – front post single crochet                 BLO – back loop only

For reference ease, special stitches, are defined in the rounds they are used in.

Beginning Loop:

With color A, ch 4.  Join with slst to beginning chain – beginning loop made.

Round 1:

Ch 3 – counts as first dc. Dc 15 times in beginning loop.  Join with slst to 3^rd ch of beginning ch-3.  Do not fasten off.  16 dc.

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Round 2: 

Ch 4 – counts as first hdc and ch-2 space.  [Skip the next stitch, hdc in next stitch, ch 2] 7 times.  Skip the last stitch, join with a slst to 2^nd ch of beginning ch-4 and fasten off.  8 hdc and 8 ch-2 spaces. 

Make special note of the ch-2 spaces and the skipped Round 1 stitches beneath them.  We will be working into these in Rounds 4 and 5.  If your piece cups a little, don’t worry – it will flatten over the next few rounds.

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Round 3:

Special stitch – Popcorn – Work 5 dc in indicated stitch.  Drop the loop from your hook and insert hook from front to back in the first stitch of group.  Pick up the dropped loop and pull through stitch.  Close with a ch 1. Closing chain does not count as a stitch for pattern purposes.

Join color B with a standing dc in any hdc from the previous round.  (4 dc) in same stitch as join and form a popcorn with beginning standing dc.  [Skip the next ch-2 space, (ch 3, popcorn) in the next stitch] 7 times.   Ch 3, join with a slst to beginning popcorn and fasten off.   8 popcorns and 8 ch-3 spaces.

Your piece may be very unwieldy and cupping at this point.  Don’t worry – we will work to ‘shore it up’ over the next couple of rounds.

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Round 4:

Note, in this round and the next we will be working in the ch-3 spaces from Round 3, the ch-2 spaces from Round 2, and the skipped stitches from Round 1.  Before you begin, you may want to take a moment to identify these spaces and stitches.

Join color C with a standing sc in any Round 3 ch-3 space, ch 1. *Working toward the center and in front of the other stitches and chains – sc in the Round 2 ch-2 space, sc in the skipped stitch from Round 1.  Working toward the top again – Sc in the  Round 2 ch-2 space again, ch 1, sc in the Round 3 ch-2 space again.  FPhdc around the next popcorn. Sc in the next  Round 3 ch-3 space, ch 1.*  Repeat * to * 7 more times, omitting the last (sc, ch 1) on final repeat.  Join with a slst to beginning sc and fasten off.  40 sc, 8 FPhdc, and 16 ch-1s.

Photos (l to r): working an sc in the R-3 ch-3 space; working an sc into the R-2 ch-2 space; working into the skipped stitch from R-1; Finished ‘v’ motif.

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Round 5:

Note – you will begin this round in your Round 2 ch-2 spaces, not Round 3. You will be working between the 2 scs already there. You may find these spaces difficult to get into as they are pretty crowded.  It can be helpful to locate the posts of the 2 scs already in the space from the back side of your work and spread/pry them apart in order to expose the chain space (see photos).  Also note that we will be working in a 3^rd loop.  The 3^rd loop appears directly behind the back loop of a stitch as a bump or vertical bar.

Photos (l to r): Looking at the back side of your work, red lines show the location of the scs in your R-2 ch-2 spaces crowded together.  The circle depicts the R-2 ch-2 space exposed once the posts of the 2 scs have been spread apart; The exposed ch-2 space from the front side; stitch marker is going through the 3^rd loop of a stitch – note photo from different pattern.

Working in front of your other chains and stitches and between the two scs already there - Join color D with a standing dc around any Round 2 ch-2 space. Ch 1, tr around the Round 3 ch-3 space. Ch 1, dc around the same Round 2 ch-1 space you made your beginning dc in. *Skip the 5 stitches and 2 ch-1 spaces from Round 4 that make up the ‘v’ – the ones worked around the chains in the prior round. Sc in the 3^rd loop of the FPhdc made around the popcorn.  Working in front of your other chains and stitches and between the two scs already there - dc around the next Round 2 ch-2 space. Ch 1, tr around the Round 3 ch-3 space. Ch 1, dc around the same Round 2 ch-2 space again.*  Repeat * to * 6 more times.  Sc in the 3^rd loop of the last FPhdc and join with a slst to beginning dc and fasten off.  16 dc, 8 trs, 8 sc and 16 ch-1 spaces.

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Round 6:

Join color E with a standing dc in the ch-1 space between any dc and tr of a side.  Dc in same space as join. *(FPdc, ch 1, FPdc) around the next tr. (2 dc) in the next ch-1 space.   Skip the next dc, sc in the next stitch – which should be the sc made into the FPhdc around the popcorn.  Skip the next dc, (2 dc) in the next ch-1 space.*  Repeat * to * 7 more times, omitting the last 2 dc on final repeat.  Join with a slst to beginning dc and fasten off.  16 FPdc, 32 dcs, 8 scs and 8 ch-1 spaces.

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Round  7:

Join color C with a standing FPdc around the first dc of any shell. *Dc in the next stitch, FPdc around the next, (dc, ch 2, dc) in the next ch-1 space. FPdc around the next stitch, dc in the next stitch, FPdc around the last dc of shell.  FPsc around the next sc.  FPdc around the first stitch of the next shell.*  Repeat * to * 7 more times, omitting last FPdc on final repeat.  Join with a slst to beginning FPdc and fasten off.  32 dcs, 32 FPdcs, 8 FPscs, and 8 ch-2 spaces.

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Round 8:

For explanation on 3^rd loop please refer to Round 5.

Special stitch – Triple 3 Together – tr3tog –  Yo twice, insert hook into first indicated stitch and draw up a loop.  [Yo , pull through 2 loops] twice – 2 LOOPS ON HOOK.  Yo twice, insert hook into next indicated stitch and draw up a loop. [Yo , pull through 2 loops] twice - 3 LOOPS ON HOOK.  Yo twice, insert hook into next indicated stitch and draw up a loop. [Yo , pull through 2 loops] twice - 4 LOOPS ON HOOK.  Yo and pull through all 4 loops. 

Join color B with a standing sc in any ch-2 space at the top of a petal point.  (Ch 1, sc) in same space. *Sc in the 3^rd loop of the next 2 stitches.  Ch 2, skip the next stitch.  Tr3tog in the 3^rd loop of the next 3 stitches.  Ch 2, skip the next stitch.  Sc in the 3^rd loop of the last 2 stitches before the next petal point. (Sc, ch 1, sc) in the next ch-2 space.*  Repeat * to * 7 more times, omitting last (sc, ch 1, sc) on final repeat.  Join with a slst to beginning sc and fasten off.   48 scs, 8 tr3tog, 16 ch-2s,  and 8 ch-1 spaces.

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Round 9:

Special stitch – Front Post Triple 2 Together – FPtr2tog -  Yo twice. Insert hook from front to back to front around the post of the first indicated stitch and draw up a loop. [Yo , pull through 2 loops] twice – 2 LOOPS ON HOOK.  Yo twice. Insert hook from front to back to front around the post of the last indicated stitch and draw up a loop. [Yo , pull through 2 loops] twice – 3 LOOPS ON HOOK.  Yo and draw through all 3 loops.

Join color E with a standing sc in the ch-1 space at the top of any petal point.  (Ch 1, sc) in the same space as join.  *BPsc around the next 2 stitches.  Ch 2, skip the next stitch and ch-2 space, slst into the top of the tr3tog.  Looking at the FPdcs from Round 7, you should have 4 FPdcs between each ‘petal point’ - FPtr2tog around the post of the 1^st and 4^th FPdc. Ch 1 and slst in the top of the tr3tog again. Ch 2, skip the next ch-2 space and stitch.  BPsc around the next 2 stitches.  (Sc, ch 1, sc) in the next ch-1 space.*  Repeat * to * 7 more times, omitting last (sc, ch 1, sc) on final repeat.  Join with a slst to beginning sc and fasten off.  32 BPsc, 16 scs, 16 ch-2s, 8 FPtr2togs, 8 ch-1 spaces at the top of petals, 8 ch-1s following slsts, 16 slst (not including join).

Suggested – check and make sure all your FPtr2togs are around the correct posts before moving on.  My first time through I placed the leg of one of my FPtr2togs around the wrong post and didn’t notice until Round 13!

Photos (l to r): The four Round 7 FPdcs – the first is circled in green and the 4^th is circled in yellow.  Work your FPtr2tog around these posts; a finished FPtr2tog.

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Round 10:

Join color D with a standing hdc in ch-2 space before any FPtr2tog.  2 hdc in the same space. *Ch 1, skip the next FPtr2tog, 3 hdc in the next ch-2 space.  BPhdc around the next 2 stitches.  Ch 2, skip the next (sc, ch-1, sc).  BPhdc around the next 2 stitches.  3 hdc in the next ch-2 space.*  Repeat * to * 7 more times, omitting last 3 hdc on final repeat.  Join with a slst to beginning hdc.  DO NOT fasten off.  Place a stitch marker in your active loop to hold your place.  You will keep this loop BEHIND your work in the next round.  32 BPhdc, 48 hdc, 8 ch-1 spaces, and 8 ch-2 spaces. 

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Round 11:

Note: In this round, your FPtr2tog may be sort of ‘folded over’ and you may have to pull the stitch up to open it up and  see the loops you will be working through (see photo – the needle is going through the top of the FPtr2tog).

Special stitch – Long 2dc Cluster – Yo, insert hook into indicated stitch.  Pull up a long loop by allowing it to rise up to the current row height.  Yo, pull through 2 loops – 2 LOOP ON HOOK. Yo, insert hook into indicated stitch again.  Pull up a long loop by allowing it to rise up to the current row height.  Yo, pull through 2 loops – 3 LOOP ON HOOK.  Yo, pull through all 3 loops.

Special stitch – 4hdc Popcorn – Work 4 hdc in indicated stitch.  Drop the loop from your hook and insert hook from front to back in the first stitch of group.  Pick up the dropped loop and pull through stitch.  Close with a ch 1. Closing chain does not count as a stitch for pattern purposes.

In the previous round we worked 3 hdcs in each ch-3 space.  Join color A/F with a slst in the BLO of the 1^st hdc of a 3-hdc-set before any FPtr2tog. *Ch 2.  [Long 2dc cluster through the top of the next FPtr2tog from Round 9 and the ch-1 space from Round 10 together, ch 2] 3 times.  Skip the next 2 stitches and slst into the BLO of the next 2 stitches.  Ch 2, skip the next stitch, 4hdc popcorn in the ch-1 space from Round 9 and the ch-2 space from Round 10 together.  Ch 2, skip the next stitch, slst into the BLO of the next 2 stitches.*  Repeat * to * 7 more times, omitting last slst on final repeat.  Join with a slst to beginning slst and fasten off.   24 long 2dc clusters, 32 slsts, 8 4hdc popcorns, and 48 ch-2 spaces.

Photos (l to r): when working your clusters and popcorns be sure to work through the Round 10 spaces as well; round 11 finished.

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Round 12:

When working in your Round 10 stitches on this round, be sure you are working in front of – not over – your Round 11 chains and stitches.

Photos (l to r): pick up your loop and ch-3; working over Round 11, dc in the FLO you made your final slst in; beginning stitch made.

Picking up the active loop from Round 10 – Ch 3 – does not count as stitch.  Working in your Round 10 stitches – dc in the FLO of the stitch you made your final Round 11 slst in.  Dc in the FLO of the next stitch – which should be the same stitch you made your Round 11 join in.  *Dc in both loops of the next stitch.  Skip the next stitch.  Returning to Round 11 – FPsc around the next Long 2dc cluster, 2 sc in the ch-2 sp.  Skip the next Long 2dc tog, 2sc in the next ch-2 space.  FPsc around the next Long 2dc cluster.  Working in your Round 10 stitches – skip the next stitch, dc in both loops of the next stitch, dc in the FLO of the next 2 stitches.  Dc in both loops of the next stitch.  Returning to Round 11 – FPhdc around the popcorn.  Working in your Round 10 stitches – dc in both loops of the next Round 10 stitch, Dc in the FLO of the next 2.*  Repeat * to * 7 more times, omitting the last 2 dc in the FLOs on final repeat.  Join with a slst to beginning dc and fasten off.  64 dcs, 32 scs, 16 FPscs, and 8 FPhdcs.

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Round 13: 

Join color A with a standing sc in any FPhdc worked around a popcorn.  Sc in the next 4 stitches. *FPdc around the first Round 11 long 2dc cluster.  Skip the Round 12 stitch directly behind the FPdc just made – which should be the FPsc worked around the long 2dc cluster in the previous round ­– sc in the next 2 stitches.  FPdc around the next Round 11 long 2dc cluster, sc in the next 2 Round 13 stitches, FPdc around the last long 2dc cluster.  Skip the Round 12 stitch directly behind the FPdc just made - which should be the FPsc worked around the long 2dc cluster in the previous round -sc in the next 9 stitches.* Repeat * to * 7 more times, omitting last 5 scs on final repeat. Join with a slst to beginning sc and fasten off. 104 sc and 24 FPdc for a total of 128 stitches.

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Round 14:

Special Instruction – Shallow Post Stitches - For a more even look, work your back post stitches ‘shallow’ in this round, or at the very top of your stitches, just under the front and back loops and above the 3rd loop of your stitches rather than dropping beneath the 3rd loop and working around the post itself (see photo – hook entering stitch from back to front above the 3rd loop and arrow is showing where hook will exit from front to back above 3rd loop to complete the stitch).

Join color C with a standing BPtr around the center FPdc of any ‘3 petal’ motif.  Ch 2, BPtr around the same stitch – corner made.  *BPtr in the next 3 stitches, BPdc in the next 5 stitches, BPhdc in the next 5 stitches, BPsc in the next 5 stitches.  BPhdc in the next 5 stitches, BPdc in the next 5 stitches, BPtr in the next 3.  Your next stitch should be a FPdc worked around the center petal of a ‘3 petal’ motif – (BPtr, ch 2, BPtr) around this stitch – corner made.*  Repeat * to * 3 more times omitting, corner sequence on final repeat.  Join with a slst to beginning BPtr.  If changing colors for the next round, fasten off, otherwise DO NOT fasten off. 33 stitches per side.

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Round 15:

If working in the same color:  Slst into the next corner space.  Ch 2 – counts as 1^st hdc.  
If changing colors: Join color B with a standing hdc in any corner space.

(Hdc, ch 2, 2 hdc) in the same corner space.  *Hdc in the next 4 stitches.  Ch 1, skip the next stitch, hdc in the next 2 stitches.  Sc in the next 8 stitches, slst in the next 3 stitches, sc in the next 8 stitches, hdc in the next 2 stitches.  Ch 1, skip the next stitch, hdc in the next 4 stitches.  (2 hdc, ch 2, 2 hdc) in the next corner space.*  Repeat * to * 3 more times, omitting corner sequence on final repeat.  Join with a slst to the 2^nd ch of beginning ch-2 or beginning standing hdc and fasten off.  35 stitches per side.

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Round 16:

Join color F with a standing hdc in any corner space.  (Hdc, ch 2, 2 hdc) in same space. *Skip the 1^st stitch of side, hdc in the next 5 stitches.  Working toward your center – sc in the next ch-1 sp, ch 1, sc in the Round 14 skipped stitch.  Working toward the edge again – ch 1, sc in the Round 15 ch-1 space again.  Skip the next stitch – which will likely be hidden – hdc in the next 22 stitches.  Working toward your center – sc in the next ch-1 sp, ch 1, sc in the Round 14 skipped stitch.  Working toward the edge again – ch 1, sc in the Round 15 ch-1 space again.  Skip the next stitch – which will likely be hidden – hdc in the last 5 stitches of side.  (2 hdc, ch 2, 2 hdc) in the next corner space.*  Repeat * to * 3 more times, omitting corner sequence on final repeat.  Join with a slst to beginning hdc and fasten off.  45 stitches per side including scs and chains worked into the ch-1 spaces and Round 14 skipped stitch.

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Round 17:

Special Stitch – 3 Dc Cluster – 3dc clstr – Yo, insert hook into indicated stitch, pull up a loop.  Yo, pull through 2 loops – 2 LOOP ON HOOK. Yo, insert hook into same stitch, pull up a loop.  Yo, pull through 2 sloops – 3 LOOPS ON HOOK. Yo, insert hook into same stitch, pull up a loop.  Yo, pull through 2 sloops – 4 LOOPS ON HOOK.  Yo and pull through all 4 loops – cluster made.

FOR PURPOSES OF THIS PATTERN, DO NOT CLOSE YOUR CLUSTER STITCHES WITH A CHAIN!

Special Instruction – Shallow Post Stitches - For a more even look, work your back post stitches ‘shallow’ in this round.  For more information on how to make these see Round 14.

Join color D with a standing hdc in any corner space.  Ch 2, hdc in the same space. *BPhdc around the next 7 stitches.  Skipping the 3 Round 16 scs and 2 ch-1s used to form a ‘v’ – 3dc clstr in the Round 15 ch-1 space between the 2 scs already there.  BPsc around the next 22 stitches. Skipping the 3 Round 16 scs and 2 ch-1s used to form a ‘v’ – 3dc clstr in the Round 15 ch-1 space between the 2 scs already there.  BPhdc around the last 7 stitches of side.  (Hdc, ch 2, hdc) in the next corner space.*  Repeat * to * 3 more times, omitting corner sequence on final repeat.  Join with a slst to beginning hdc and fasten off.  40 stitches per side.

Congratulations - you are finished!!

This pattern was written and designed by me, Lisa Mauser, for This Little Hook of Mine. I am happy to share it with you, but this pattern belongs to me and I retain all rights.  You may not distribute, sell, or share this pattern, or any parts of it.  If you wish to share the pattern, please refer the party you are sharing it with to the original pattern link. Though this pattern has been tested, it is not perfect.  If you find a mistake, please let me know in the comments below or through the contact me button and I will fix it.

Thank you for respecting my property.  I really hope you enjoyed the pattern!