Galahad
At long last we have come to Galahad, the most faithful and pure of Arthur's knights. Galahad will forever be remembered as the knight who achieved success in the ultimate quest - the search for the Holy Grail! If you make this square, perhaps you will discover a grail as well - it's a little hidden, but in there!This square is the 9th and final 12" square in a series of squares inspired by the Legends of King Arthur. Like the tales themselves, this pattern is not for the faint of heart. It requires INTERMEDIATE to ADVANCED skill and features unusual center construction.
Huge thanks to the following Ravelry members for testing this square:
MawMawsGarden, danika2407, Wuzzel, PaulinaSmith, hrdnglynne, Catinmylap
I appreciate each and every one of you!!!
I hope you enjoy the pattern.
-Lisa
Materials:
- Size H/5 mm crochet hook;
- Tapestry needle for weaving in
ends;
- Worsted weight yarns in the
brand/color of your choice - I used Hobby Lobby 'I Love This Yarn' in the following colors:
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Land Version (end)
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Celtic Colorway (top)
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A
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Graphite
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1
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Greybeard
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B
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Sungold
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2
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Sea Blue
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C
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Burnt Pumpkin
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3
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Antique Teal
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D
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Red
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4
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Light Sage
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E
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Aubergine
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5
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Forest
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F
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Mid Green
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6
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Navy
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G
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Greybeard
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H
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Mixed Berry
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I
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Purple
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Hook Size/Gauge:
Using an H size hook and
worsted weight yarn I was able to obtain a 12” square.
Basic Terms/Abbreviations Used (US):
ch – chain FPhdc – front post half double crochet
yo – yarn over BPhdc
– back post half double crochet
slst – slip stitch FPdc
– front post double crochet
sc – single crochet BPdc
– back post double crochet
hdc – half double crochet FPtr – front post
triple
dc – double crochet
tr – triple crochet
FPsc – front post single
crochet
For reference ease, special
stitches are defined in the rounds they are used in.
Beginning Loop:
With color A/1, ch 4. Join
with a slst to first ch – beginning loop
made.
Round 1:
Ch 3 – counts as first dc. (2 dc)
in beginning loop. [Ch 2, (3 dc) in
beginning loop] 3 times. Ch 2 and join
with a slst to third chain of beginning ch-3 and fasten off. 12 dc
and 4 ch-2 corner spaces.
Special Stitch – 4 dc
popcorn – 4dc pop – (4 dc) in indicated stitch or space. Drop loop from hook. Insert hook from front to back through
beginning dc, pick up dropped loop and pull through. Ch 1 to close. For pattern purposes closing ch does not
count toward subsequent chains.
Join color B/2 with a standing
sc in the first dc of any side. * Ch 2,
skip the next stitch, sc in the next stitch, slst into the next corner space. (Ch 3, 4dc pop, ch 2, 4dc pop) in same
space. Ch 2 – traveling chain made. Turn your work over -
working on the back side - slst into the ch-2 space between
popcorns. Turn work over again – working on the front side again - Ch 3, 4dc pop in the same ch-2 space
working over the traveling chain you just made and enclosing it. Ch 3, slst in the same space that you just
made a popcorn in – to the left of that popcorn. Ch 3, slst in the Round 1 corner that
contains the first 2 popcorns of the sequence - to the left of the second popcorn. Sc in the first dc of the next side – which will
likely be hidden behind your slst and popcorn.* Repeat
* to * 3 more times, omitting last sc on
final repeat. Join with a slst to
beginning sc and fasten off. 12 popcorn, 8 scs, 4 ch-2 spaces between
popcorn, 4 traveling ch-2 spaces between popcorn – now enclosed, 16 ch-3 spaces
on the sides of popcorn and 4 ch-2 spaces between popcorn clusters – THESE ARE
NOW YOUR NEW CORNER SPACES.
Photos, left to right: (Ch 3, 4dc
pop, ch 2, 4dc pop) in corner space; Ch
2, turn your work over, and slst into the ch-2 space between pops – shown from
back side; from the front side again, Ch 3; 4dc pop in the space between
popcorns working over and enclosing the traveling ch-2; the top popcorn
complete – ch 3; slst in the same space you made the top popcorn in – to the
left of that popcorn; Ch3, slst in the Round 1 corner space that contains the
first 2 pops of the sequence.
Special Stitch – Chain 3 Picot
(ch 3 picot) – ch 3 and slst into
the front loop and left vertical bar of the last stitch made (photos above: yellow highlights front loop and left vertical bar; hook inserted into
front loop and vertical bar – photos from different pattern).
Join color C/3 with a standing
dc in any ch-2 corner space between popcorn clusters. (Ch 2, dc) in the same space. *FPdc around the next sc. Skip the next slst. Working up the right side of your popcorns in the ch-3
spaces that run along the sides of the popcorns and around the popcorns themselves – (3 sc) in the first ch-3 space, FPhdc around
the next popcorn, (3 hdc) in the next ch-3 space. FPdc around the top popcorn. Ch 3 picot in the top of FPdc just made. Working down the
left side of your popcorns in the ch-3 spaces that run along the sides of the
popcorns and around the popcorns themselves – (3 hdc) in the next ch-3
space, FPhdc around the next popcorn, (3 sc) in the next ch-3 space. Skip the next slst and FPdc around the next
sc. (Dc, ch 2, dc) in the next ch-2 corner
space.* Repeat * to * 3 more times,
omitting last (dc, ch 2, dc) on final repeat.
Join with a slst to beginning dc and fasten off. 12 FPdc, 8 FPhdc, 24 sc, 24 hdc, 8 dc, 4 ch-3 picot, and 4 ch-2 corner spaces.
Photos, left to right: where to join; work up the right side of your
popcorns in the ch-3 spaces; work down
the left side of your popcorns in the ch-3 spaces; finished.
Please note – your piece may be unwieldy
after this round and may remain so on and off for the next couple of
rounds. This is normal though may be a
bit fiddly to work with.
Special Stitch – 4 dc
popcorn – 4dc pop – (4 dc) in indicated stitch or space. Drop loop from hook. Insert hook from front to back through
beginning dc, pick up dropped loop and pull through. Ch 1 to close. For pattern purposes closing ch does not
count toward subsequent chains.
Join color D/4 with a slst in
any ch-2 corner space. *(Ch 3, 4dc pop, ch 2, 4dc pop) in same space.
Ch 2 – traveling
chain made. Turn your work over - working on the back side - slst
into the ch-2 space between popcorns. Turn work over
again – working on the front side again -
ch 3, 4dc pop in the same ch-2 working over the
traveling chain you just made and
enclosing it. Ch 3, slst in the same
space that you just made a popcorn in – to the left of that popcorn. Ch 3, slst in the Round 3 ch-2 space that
contains the first 2 popcorns of the
sequence - to
the left of the second popcorn. Sc in the next 2 stitches – don’t miss the
first hidden stitch. Ch 5 and pull your ch behind the Round 3
stitches worked along the sides of your popcorns skipping all of them. Sc in the last 2 stitches before the next
corner space. Slst into the next ch-2
space.* Repeat * to * 3 more times,
omitting last slst on final repeat. Join
with a slst to beginning slst and fasten off. 12 popcorn, 16 scs, 4 ch-5 spaces, 16 ch-3 spaces on the sides of
popcorn, plus 4 ch-2 spaces between popcorn and 4 traveling ch-2 spaces between
popcorns now enclosed.
Round 5:
Special Stitch – Chain 3 Picot - ch
3 picot – ch 3 and slst into the
front loop and left vertical bar of the last stitch made (same as picot made in
Round 3 – for more information photo Round 3).
Join color E/5 with a standing
dc in any ch-5 space. (5 dc) in the same space.
*Your
next 2 stitches should be worked into an
FPdc and dc from Round 3 – dropping to Round 3 and working in front of the Round
4 stitches already there - FPtr around the next Round 3 FPdc, FPtr
around the next Round 3 dc. Skip the
Round 4 stitches located directly behind the FPtrs just made. Working up the
right side of your popcorns in the ch-3 spaces that run along the sides of the
popcorns and around the popcorns themselves
– (3 sc) in the first ch-3 space, FPhdc around the next popcorn, (3 hdc)
in the next ch-3 space. FPdc around the
top popcorn. Ch 3 picot in the FPdc just
made. Working
down the left side of your popcorns in the ch-3 spaces that run along the sides
of the popcorns and around the popcorns when themselves – (3 hdc) in
the next ch-3 space, FPhdc around the next popcorn, (3 sc) in the next
space. Your next 2 stitches should be worked into a dc and FPdc from Round 3 –
dropping to Round 3 and working in front of the Round 4 stitches already there -
FPtr around the next Round 3 dc, FPtr around the next Round 3 FPdc. Skip the Round 4 stitches located directly
behind the FPtrs just made. Returning to Round 4
– (6 dc) in the next ch-5 space.* Repeat
* to * 3 more times, omitting (6 dc) on final repeat. Join with a slst to beginning dc and fasten
off. 16 FPtr, 8 FPhdc, 4 FPdc, 24 dc, 24 hdc, 24
sc, and 4 ch-3 picots.
Round 6:
Join color F/1 with a standing
dc in the 1st dc of any 6-dc set.
Dc in the next stitch, *ch 5, skip the next 2 stitches, dc in the next 2
stitches. FPtr around the next 2
stitches, BPdc around the next stitch - which should be
the first sc worked into the chains that run alongside the popcorns.
Ch 5, pull the chain behind the popcorns skipping all the stitches worked into
the ch-3 spaces except the last sc – BPdc around that sc – corner made. FPtr around the next 2 stitches, dc in the
next 2 stitches.* Repeat * to * 3 more
times, omitting the last 2 dc on
final repeat. Join with a slst to
beginning dc. Fasten off. 10
stitches and 1 ch-5 space per side. 4
ch-5 corner spaces.
At the end of this round pull your ch-5
spaces on your sides through the Round 3 picots in front of them, Jacob’s Ladder
style – see photos. Place stitch markers
in the loops to hold them in place until they are secured in the following
round.
Round 7:
Join color F/1 with a standing
dc in any ch-5 corner space. (5 dc) in the same space. *Dc in the next stitch,
ch 1, FPdc around each of the next 2 FPtr, hdc in the next 2 stitches. Make sure your ch-5 from the prior round is pulled
through the top of your Round 3 picot – Jacob’s Ladder style - slst
in this loop and remove stitch marker.
Hdc in the next 2 stitches, FPdc around the next 2 stitches. Ch 1, dc in
the next stitch. (6 dc) in the next ch-5
corner space.* Repeat * to * 3 more
times, omitting (6 dc) on final repeat.
Join with a slst to beginning dc.
DO NOT fasten off. 13 stitches and
2 ch-1 spaces per side, and 6 dc per corner.
Round 8:
Ch 2 – counts as beginning hdc. Dc in the next stitch, tr in the next stitch.
*Dropping to
Round 5 – (Sc, ch 2, sc) through the next Round 5 picot. Returning to Round 7 – tr in the next stitch,
dc in the next stitch, hdc in the next 2 stitches. Sc in the next ch-1 space, sc in the next 9
stitches, sc in the next ch-1 space. Hdc
in the next 2 stitches, dc in the next stitch, tr in the next stitch.* Repeat * to * 3 more times, omitting last {hdc,
dc, and tr} on final repeat. Join with a
slst to 2nd ch of beginning ch-2 and fasten off. 21 stitches per side.
Round 9:
Join color G/4 with a standing
hdc in any ch-2 corner space. (Ch 2, hdc)
in same space. *Hdc in next 8 stitches. You should have 4
FPdcs from round 7 – 2 to the right of the center motif and 2 to the left of
the center motif – FPtr
around each of the first 2 FPdcs from Round 7, skip the next 2 Round 8
stitches, hdc in the next stitch, FPtr around the last 2 FPdcs from Round 7,
skip the next 2 Round 8 stitches, hdc in the next 8 stitches. (Hdc, ch 2, hdc) in the next corner
space.* Repeat * to * 3 more times,
omitting corner sequence on final repeat.
Join sith a slst to beginning hdc and fasten off. 23 stitches per side.
Round 10:
Special Stitch – Front Post
Double Crochet 4 Together – FPdc4tog - Yo,
insert hook from front to back to front around first indicated post, pull up a
loop. Yo, pull through 2 loops – 2 LOOPS
ON HOOK. Yo, insert hook from front to back to front around second indicated
post, pull up a loop. Yo, pull through 2
loops – 3 LOOPS ON HOOK. Yo, insert hook from front to back to front around
third indicated post, pull up a loop.
Yo, pull through 2 loops – 4 LOOPS ON HOOK. Yo, insert hook from front to back to front
around last indicated post, pull up a loop.
Yo, pull through 2 loops – 5 LOOPS ON HOOK. Yo, pull through all 5 loops.
Join color H/3 with a standing
hdc in any corner space. (Ch 2, hdc) in
same space. *Hdc in the next 10
stitches. FPdc4tog around the 4 post
stitches from Round 9, skipping the hdc in between. Ch 1 - do not make these ch-1s too tight as we
will work into them in the next round. Hdc
in the stitch that has the last leg of the FPdc4tog already worked around
it. Hdc in last 9 stitches of side. (Hdc, ch 2, hdc) in the next corner space.* Repeat * to * 3 more times, omitting corner
sequence on final repeat. Join with a
slst to beginning hdc and fasten off. 24
stitches per side including the closing ch-1 for the FPdc4tog.
Round 11:
Special Stitch – Giant Puff – yo, [Insert hook into same indicated
stitch or space and pull up a loop, yo] 6 times – 13 LOOPS ON HOOK. Pull through all 13 loops, ch 1 to
close. Closing chain does not count
as a stitch for pattern purposes. Be sure to yo at the beginning of your puffs
or they will have a ‘strand’ showing on the side of them!
Join color I/6 with a standing
dc in any corner space. (Ch 2, dc) in same space. *Skip the first ‘hidden’ stitch, [hdc in the
next stitch, ch 1, skip the next stitch] 4 times, hdc in the next stitch, ch 2,
skip the {next stitch and the FPdc4tog}, giant puff in the ch-1 space located
at the top of the FPdc4tog. Ch 1 and
slst in the closing ch of the puff just made. Ch 2, skip the next 2 stitches – be careful not to miss the first ‘hidden’ stitch,
[hdc in the next stitch, ch 1, skip the next stitch] 4 times, hdc in the last
stitch of side. (Dc, ch 2, dc) in the
next corner space.* Repeat * to * 3 more
times, omitting corner sequence on final repeat. Join with a slst to beginning dc and fasten
off. 12
stitches, 8 ch-1 spaces, 2 ch-2 spaces and 1 giant puff with a ch-1 space on
top per side.
Round 12:
Special Stitch –
Extended mini puff - xmp – insert hook into indicated stitch or
space, pull up a loop – 2 LOOPS ON HOOK.
Yo, insert hook into same indicated stitch or space, pull up a loop – 4
LOOPS ON HOOK. Yo, pull through 3 loops,
yo pull through last 2 loops.
Join color G/4 with a standing
dc in any corner space. (Dc, ch 2, 2 dc)
in same space. *Being
careful not to miss the first ‘hidden’ stitch – dc in the next
stitch, [xmp in the next stitch, dc in the next ch-1 sp] 4 times, xmp in the
next stitch, dc in the ch-2 space. (Dc,
hdc, dc) in the ch-1 space at the top of the next giant puff, dc in the next
ch-2 space, [xmp in the next stitch, dc
in the next ch-1 sp] 4 times, xmp in the next stitch, dc in the last stitch of
side. (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in the next corner
space.* Repeat * to * 3 more times,
omitting the corner sequence on final repeat.
Join with a slst to beginning dc and fasten off. 29 stitches per side.
Round 13:
Join color B/2 with a standing
dc in any corner space. (Dc, Ch 2, 2 dc) in the same space. *Skip the first
‘hidden’ stitch, hdc in the next 12 stitches.
FPdc around the next stitch, hdc in the stitch you just posted around,
FPhdc around the next stitch, hdc in the next stitch, FPdc around the stitch
just worked in. Skip the next ‘hidden’ stitch,
hdc in the last 12 stitches of the side. (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in the next corner
space.* Repeat * to * 3 more times,
omitting corner sequence on final repeat.
Join with a slst to beginning dc and fasten off.
If changing colors (land
version): Fasten off. 33
stitches per side.
If keeping the same color (celtic
version): DO NOT fasten off. 33 stitches per side.
Round 14:
If changing colors: Join color C with a standing hdc in any corner
space, ch 2.
If keeping the same color: Slst to corner sp. Ch 4 – counts as 1st hdc and
ch-2 space.
Hdc in the same corner space. * Being careful not to miss the first
‘hidden’ stitch - [Hdc in the next 2 stitches, ch 1, skip the next
stitch] 4 times. Hdc in the next stitch,
skip the next stitch, (FPdc, FPhdc) around the next stitch, hdc in the next
stitch, FPhdc around the next stitch, hdc in the next stitch, (FPhdc, FPdc)
around the next stitch, skip the next stitch, hdc in the next stitch. [Ch 1, skip the next stitch, hdc in the next
2 stitches] 4 times. (Hdc, ch 2, hdc) in
the next corner space.* Repeat * to * 3
more times, omitting corner sequence on final repeat. Join with a slst to beginning hdc and fasten
off. 27 stitches and 8 ch-1 spaces per
side.
Round 15:
Special Stitch – Spike Stitch - spike – working over the top of your prior round
stitches, insert hook in indicated stitch or space and pull up a
loop. Pull loop up to same height as the
current round – 2 LOOPS ON HOOK. Yo and
pull through both loops.
Join color E/3
with a standing sc in any corner space. (Ch 2, sc) in the same space. *Sc in the first ‘hidden’ stitch of side. [Sc
in the next 2 stitches of Round 14. Working over the ch-1 space (enclosing it) and into the
skipped stitch from Round 13 directly below it – spike stitch in the next skipped stitch
from Round 13] 4 times. Sc in the next
stitch, FPsc around the next 2 stitches, sc in the next stitch, FPsc around the
next stitch, sc in the next stitch, FPsc around the next 2 stitches, sc in the
next stitch. [Working over the ch-1 space (enclosing it) and into the
skipped stitch from Round 13 directly below it – spike stitch in the next skipped stitch
from Round 13, Sc in the next 2 stitches of Round 14] 4 times. Sc in the last stitch of the side, (sc, ch 2,
sc) in the next corner space.* Repeat *
to * 3 more times, omitting corner sequence on final repeat. Join with a slst to beginning sc and fasten
off, or alternatively use an
invisible join as we will be back posting in the next round. 37 stitches per side.
Round 16:
Join color A/6
with a standing hdc in any corner space. (Hdc, ch 2, 2 hdc) in the same space. *Skip
the first stitch of the side, BPhdc around each stitch across the side, (2 hdc,
ch 2, 2 hdc) in the next corner space.*
Repeat * to * 3 more times, omitting corner sequence on final
repeat. Join with a slst to beginning
hdc and fasten off. 40 stitches per side.
Photo above is a prototype square in the land colorway – please note rounds 11
and 12 were revised on final version.
Shown for color reference only.
Please
Remember:
This pattern was written and designed by me, Lisa Mauser, for This
Little Hook of Mine. I am happy to share it with you, but this pattern belongs
to me and I retain all rights. You may not distribute, sell, or share
this pattern, or any parts of it. If you wish to share the pattern,
please refer the party you are sharing it with to the original pattern link. Though this pattern has been tested, it is not perfect. If
you find a mistake, please let me know in the comments below or through the
contact me button and I will fix it.
Thank you for respecting my property. I really hope you
enjoyed the pattern!
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