Mordred

Mordred

Mordred! The arch-enemy of Arthur who bears a name that has become tantamount with evil and betrayal.  Variously portrayed as the villainous nephew of Arthur or the illegitimate son of Arthur through an incestuous relationship, either way, Mordred's fate is hopelessly intertwined with that of the King's. Ultimately, it is he that deals Arthur his final blow at the Battle of Camlann, but not before being fatally wounded by Arthur himself.

This is the 7th square in a series of squares inspired by The Legend's of King Arthur.  Watch for additional patterns to be released in the coming months!  You can link to the other patterns at the bottom of this post.  

Please note - this pattern, like the legends themselves, is not for the faint of heart.  It is an ADVANCED-INTERMEDIATE to ADVANCED pattern.

A huge shout-out to the following Ravelry members for volunteering to test this square:

Mawmawsgarden,  madaboutpooh, skyhookdesigns, danika2407, Wuzzel, absintheofmalice, kaikelasa

I appreciate each of you - thank you!

A FREE version of the pattern follows, or you can download a printable PDF from my Ravelry store for a nominal fee HERE.

Enjoy the pattern!

-Lisa



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Materials:

·      Size H/5 mm crochet hook;
·      8 stitch markers;
·      Tapestry needle for weaving in ends;
·         Worsted weight yarns in the brand/color of your choice. 
I used the following colors (note letters for land version, number for Celtic version):


Mordred by Land
(photo end)

Celtic Colorway
(photo above)
A
Graphite
1
Greybeard
B
Sungold
2
Antique Teal
C
Burnt Pumpkin
3
Sea Blue
D
Red
4
Navy
E
Aubergine
5
Light Sage
F
Greybeard
6
Forest
G
Purple


H
Mid Green


I
Mixed Berry


All yarns Hobby Lobby I Love this Yarn

Hook Size/Gauge:

Using an H size hook I was able to obtain a 12” square.

Basic Terms/Abbreviations (US):

ch – chain                                                           BPhdc  – back post half double crochet
yo – yarn over                                                     BPdc – back post double crochet
slst – slip stitch                                                   FPtr – front post triple crochet
sc – single crochet                                              FLO – front loop only
hdc – half double crochet                                   BLO – back loop only
dc – double crochet                                       
tr – triple crochet
dbltr – double triple crochet                       

For reference ease, special stitches are defined in the rounds they are used in. In-round notes are highlighted blue.

Round 1:

With color A/1, ch 4 – counts as first dc.  Dc in the first ch of beginning ch-4 – you will be treating this beginning ch as your beginning loop.  [Ch 3, (2 dc) in the first ch of beginning ch-4 again] 3 times.  Ch 3, Join with a slst to 4th ch of beginning ch-4.  DO NOT fasten off.  8 dc and 4 ch-3 spaces.



Round 2:

Special Stitch – Extra Large Extended mini puff – XLxmp – yo, insert hook into indicated stitch or space, pull up a loop – 3 LOOPS ON HOOK.  Yo, insert hook into same indicated stitch or space, pull up a loop – 5 LOOP ON HOOK.  Yo, pull through 3 loops, [yo, pull through 2 loops] twice. 

Ch 3 - counts as first dc.  XLxmp in same stitch as join, (XLxmp, dc) in the next stitch, Ch 4, skip the next ch-3 space, [(dc, XLxmp) in the next stitch, (XLxmp, dc) in the next stitch, ch 4, skip the next ch-3 space] 3 times.  Join with a slst to 3rd ch of beginning ch-3.  DO NOT fasten off.  8 dc, 8 XLxmp, and 4 ch-4 spaces.



Round 3:

Slst into the next stitch, ch 3 - counts as first dc. *XLxmp between the stitch just worked in and the next stitch, dc in the next stitch – which may be hidden by the XLxmp just made.  Ch 6, skip the next {stitch, ch-4 space, and stitch}, dc in the next stitch.*  Repeat * to * 3 more times, omitting last dc on final repeat.  Join with a slst to 3rd ch of beginning ch-3 and fasten off.  8 dc, 4 XLxmp, and 4 ch-6 spaces.

Cupping a bit at this point is normal.



Round 4:

In the prior round, we skipped 2 Round 2 stitches per side.  Please refer to the photo – we will be working into each of these stitches twice in this round.  For reference ease, we will refer to them as the ‘first skipped stitch of Round 2’ and the ‘second skipped stitch of round 2’.  You will have a first and second skipped stitch for each repeat/side. See photo below – orange marker shows ‘first skipped stitch’ and the blue marker shows ‘second skipped stitch’. 

  
It may be helpful to know - with the triples worked in front of our other stitches, we will be forming an ‘x’.  It may be helpful to study the step-by-step photos at the end of this round prior to starting it.

Join color B/2 with a standing sc in any ch-6 space.  (Ch 4, sc) in same space.  *Dropping to Round 2 and working behind your Round 3 ch-6 space tr in the first skipped stitch from Round 2.  Continuing to work in Round 2 but in front of your Round 3 stitches -  skip the next 3 Round 3 stitches and tr in the second skipped stitch from Round 2.  Returning to Round 3, working in the 3 stitches just skipped and behind the tr just made – sc in the first stitch, ch 2, skip the next stitch, sc in the next stitch -  corner madeReturning to Round 2, working in front of your round 3 stitches and the tr just made – tr in the first skipped stitch from round 2 again – it may be easiest to enter this stitch from back to front as 1st photo 2nd row shows - ‘x’ made. Continuing to work in Round 2 but behind the next Round 3 ch-6 space tr in the second skipped stitch from Round 2 again ­this stitch already contains a tr crochetReturning to round 3 – (sc, ch 4, sc) in the next ch-6 space.*  Repeat * to * 3 more times, omitting (sc, ch 4, sc) on final repeat.  Join with a slst to beginning sc and fasten off.  16 tr, 16 sc, 4 ch-2 spaces, and 4 ch-4 spaces.

You may pull a bit after this round too.  This is normal - it should flatten out over the next few rounds.




Round 5:

Special Stitch – Chain 2 Picot – ch 2 picot – ch 2 and slst into the front loop and left vertical bar of the last stitch made- see photos: first photo - yellow highlights front loop and left vertical bar; second photo - hook inserted into front loop and vertical bar – photos from a different pattern.
Note – we will be working into our ch-2 picots in Round 7.  Don’t work them too tight.  If you are worried about accessing them, you can make ch-3 picots, but the end look may be a bit looser.

Join color C/3 with a standing sc in any sc after a ch-4 space.  *Skip the next 3 stitches, (tr, ch 2 picot, tr, ch 2 picot, dc, ch 2 picot) in next corner space – first set of stitches made. Ch 4, (dc, ch 2 picot, tr, ch 2 picot, tr, ch 2 picot) in same ch-2 space – second set of stitches made - place a stitch marker in the Round 4 corner space, between the two set of stitches just made (see round photo) – we will be working into this corner again in the next round, between these sets of stitchSkip the next 3 stitches – first may be slightly twisted and hidden, sc in the next stitch.   Ch 4, skip the next ch-4 space, sc in the next stitch.*  Repeat * to * 3 more time, omitting last sc on final repeat.  Join with a slst to beginning sc and fasten off.  4 tr, 2 dc, 6 ch-2 picot, 2 sc, and 1 ch-4 space per side. 


Round 6:

Over the last several rounds, we have been creating a ‘ladder’ of stitches on our sides. Familiarize yourself with this ladder of spaces as we will be working up and down this ladder of chains in this round. See photo below – round numbers are labeled to the right of corresponding ch-spaces. The stitch marker marks your beginning ch-space – you will be working into this as well.

DO NOT shallow post your stitches in this round, but work fully around the posts of the stitches.

In Round 5 we worked ch-4 spaces at the corners and on the sides - Join color D/4 with a standing sc in any sc after a ‘side’ ch-4 space. *BPhdc around the next 3 stitches.  Dropping to Round 4 and working in front of, not over, your Round 5 corner space – (2 tr) in the Round 4 corner space between the sets of stitches already there – where you place your marker.  Returning to Round 5 – (dc, ch 2, dc) in the Round 5 corner space. Dropping to Round 4 and working in front of, not over, your Round 5 corner space again – (2 tr) in the Round 4 corner where you placed your stitch marker againReturning to Round 5 BPhdc around the next 3 stitches, sc in the next stitch.  Working down your ladder of stitches, in front of, not over, your other round chains and stitches – skip the next Round 5 ch-sp, sc in the Round 4 ch-sp, sc in the Round 3 ch-sp, ch 1, sc in the Round 2 ch-sp, ch 1, sc in the Round 1 ch-sp, ch 1, sc in the beginning ch.  Working up your ladder of stitches, in front of, not over your other round chains and stitches ch 1, sc in the Round 1 ch-sp again, ch 1, sc in the Round 2 ch-sp again, ch 1, sc in the Round 3 ch-sp again, sc in the Round 4 ch-sp again, skip the Round 5 ch-sp, sc in the next Round 5 stitch.*  Repeat * to * 3 more times, omitting last sc on final repeat.  Join with a slst to beginning sc and fasten off. 23 stitches per side including those worked in chs and 6 ch-1 spaces.

At the end of this round, pull your ch-2 picots forward – they may have gotten kind of pushed back or hidden behind your Round 6 stitches.  You should have 3 on each side of the corner space.   Remove all stitch markers if you haven’t already.

Recommended – pry apart the stitches worked into your ‘ladder’ in order to expose the ch-spaces between them again.  We will be working in some of these chains again in the next round.


Round 7:

Special Instruction – Shallow Post Stitches - For a more even look and for easier access, work your back post stitches ‘shallow’ in this and subsequent rounds.  To do this, make the back post stitch at the very top of your stitches, just under the front and back loops and above the 3rd loop rather than dropping beneath the 3rd loop and working around the post itself (see photo below – hook entering stitch from back to front above the 3rd loop and arrow is showing where hook will exit from front to back above 3rd loop to complete the stitch – photo from different pattern).


Join color E/5 with a standing sc in any corner space.  (Ch 5, sc) in same space.  *BPhdc around the next 3 stitches, skip the next 3 stitches – dropping to Round 5 and working in front of, not over, your skipped Round 6 stitches - hdc in the next 3 ch-2 picots.  Skipping your next Round 6 stitch and all the stitches worked up and down the chain ladder, and working in front of, not over, the other round chains and stitches between any stitches already there  – hdc in the next Round 5 ch-sp, dbltr in the Round 1 ch-sp, tr in the Round 2 ch-sp, dbltr in the Round 1 ch-sp again, hdc in the Round 5 ch-sp again.  Skipping the next 4 Round 6 stitches and working in front of, not over them hdc in the next 3 ch-2 picots.  BPhdc around the last 3 stitches of side, (sc, ch 5, sc) in the next corner space.*  Repeat * to * 3 more times, omitting corner sequence on final repeat.  Join with a slst to beginning sc and fasten off, or alternatively, use an invisible join as we will be back posting in the next round.  19 stitches per side.




Round 8:

Remember to shallow post your stitches in this round.

Join color F/6 with a standing BPhdc in the first stitch after any corner space.  *BPhdc in the next 4 stitches, BPdc in the next 3 stitches, ch 3, skip the next 3 stitches, BPdc in the next 3 stitches, BPhdc in the next 5 stitches.  Ch 4, skip the next corner space and pulling your ch behind that space, BPhdc in the first stitch of the next side.*  Repeat * to * 3 more times, omitting last BPhdc on final repeat.  Join with a slst to beginning BPhdc and fasten off.  16 stitches and 1 ch-3 space per side.  1 ch-4 corner space behind each Round 7 corner space.

Round 9:

Join color G/5 with a standing sc in any Round 7 ch-5 corner space.  (Ch 5, sc) in same space.  *Returning to Round 8 - sc in the BLO of the next 6 stitches.  You should have a skipped {dbltr, tr, dbltr} on each side from Round 7 – working in front of your other round stitches – tr in the first skipped dbltr of the side.  Returning to Round 8 skip the stitch directly behind the tr just made, sc in the BLO of the next stitch, ch 2, skip the next ch-3 space, sc in the BLO of the next stitch.  Dropping to Round 7 again – working in front of your other round stitches – tr in the 2nd skipped dbltr of the side – you will already have passed this stitch and will be working somewhat backward.  Returning to Round 8skip the stitch directly behind the tr just made, sc in the BLO of the last 6 stitches of side. Working in the Round 7 corner space ­– (sc, ch 5, sc).  Skip the Round 8 corner space directly behind the corner just worked in.*  Repeat * to * 3 more times, omitting last corner sequence on final repeat.  Join with a slst to beginning sc and fasten off, or alternatively, use an invisible join as we will be posting around this stitch in the next round.  18 stitches per side and 1 ch- 2 space.


Round 10:

Special Stitch – 3 Triple Popcorn – 3tr pop – Work 3 tr in indicated stitch.  Drop the loop from your hook and insert hook from front to back in the first stitch of group.  Pick up the dropped loop and pull through stitch.  Close with a ch 1. Closing chain does not count as a stitch.

Remember to shallow post your stitches in this round.

Working behind your Round 9 corner - Join color H/2 with a standing tr in any skipped Round 8 ch-4 corner space.  (Ch 2, tr) in the same corner space.  *Returning to Round 9­ -  skip the Round 9 corner space, BPhdc around the first stitch of side.  Working in the skipped FLOs from Round 8, in front of your Round 9 stitches and skipping these stitches dc in the FLO of the next 6 stitches.  Returning to Round 9 hdc in the next tr.  Returning to Round 8 and working in front your Round 9 stitches and space dc in the next skipped FLO, tr in the skipped ch-3 space.   Dropping to round 7 and working in front of your other round chains and spaces  - 3tr pop in the skipped tr.  Returning to Round 8 and working in front of your Round 9 stitches and space tr in the ch-3 space again, dc in the next skipped FLO.  Returning to Round 9 hdc in the next triple.  Working in the skipped FLOs from Round 8, in front of the Round 9 stitches and skipping these stitches dc in the next 6 FLOs.  Returning to Round 9 -  BPhdc around the last stitch of the side. Skip the next Round 9 corner space.  Working behind it, (tr, ch 2, tr) in the next Round 8 corner space.*  Repeat * to * 3 more times, omitting corner sequence on final repeat.  Join with a slst to beginning tr and fasten off. 23 stitches per side.

Round 11:

Special stitch – Front Post Triple 2 Together - FPtr 2tog –  Yo twice. Insert hook from front to back to front around the post of the first indicated stitch and draw up a loop. [Yo , pull through 2 loops] twice – 2 LOOPS ON HOOK.  Yo twice. Insert hook from front to back to front around the post of the last indicated stitch and draw up a loop. [Yo , pull through 2 loops] twice – 3 LOOPS ON HOOK.  Yo and draw through all 3 loops.

Join color G/5 with a standing sc in any Round 9 ch-5 corner space. (Ch 5, sc) in the same space.  *Returning to Round 10 – sc in the BLO of the next 6 stitches the 1st stitch may be hiddenIn Round 9, we worked 2 triples, now on each side of the popcorn FPtr around the Round 9 tr to the right of the popcorn work over the top of the hdc already in this stitch. Returning to Round 10 – skip the stitch directly behind the FPtr just made, sc in the BLO of the next 4 stitches.  Working around the 2 triples from Round 9 again – FPtr 2tog around the triple just before the popcorn and around the triple just after the popcorn.  Returning to Round 10skip the stitch directly behind the FPtr 2tog just made – which should be the popcorn – sc in the BLO of the next 4 stitches.  Dropping to Round 9 again – FPtr around the Round 9 tr to the left of the popcorn again – work over the top of the stitches already there.  Returning to Round 10 – skip the stitch directly behind the FPtr just made, sc in the BLO of the last 6 stitches of side.  (Sc, ch 5, sc) in the next Round 9 corner space, skipping the Round 10 corner space directly behind it.*  Repeat * to * 3 more times, omitting corner sequence on final repeat.  Join with a slst to beginning sc, or alternatively join with and invisible join as we will be back posting around this stitch in the next round.  25 stitches per side.



Round 12:  Take this round one step at a time as it is challenging!

Note – when working into the skipped FLOs from Round 10, we will only be working into the stitches that already contain an sc in the BLO – not the other Round 10 stitches.  Make sure you are being careful to check that you are working in the correct FLOs or things might not line up right in future rounds.

Remember to shallow post your stitches in this round.

Working behind your Round 11 corner - join color F/6 with a standing tr in any Round 10 ch-2 corner space.  (Ch 2, tr) in the same space.  *Returning to Round 11 – skip the Round 11 corner space, BPhdc around the first stitch of side. Working in the skipped FLOs from Round 10, in front of your Round 11 stitches, skipping these stitches – dc in the FLO of the next 6 stitches – the 1st stitch may be hidden. Returning to Round 11 – hdc in the next FPtr.  Working in the skipped FLOs from Round 10 again, in front of your Round 11 stitches and skipping these stitches - dc in the FLO of the next 4 stitches.  Returning to Round 11 – hdc in the next FPtr 2tog.  Working in the skipped FLOs from Round 10 again, in front of your Round 11 stitches and skipping these stitches – dc in the FLO of the next 4 stitches.  Returning to Round 11 – hdc in the next FPtr. Working in the skipped FLOs from Round 10 again, in front of your Round 11 stitches and skipping these stitches – dc in the FLO of the next 6 stitches.  Returning to Round 11 – BPhdc around the last stitch of side.  Skip the Round 11 corner space, (tr, ch 2, tr) in the Round 10 corner space directly behind it.*  Repeat * to * 3 more times, omitting corner sequence on final repeat.  Join with a slst to beginning tr and fasten off.  27 stitches per side.



Round 13:

Special stitch – Front Post Triple 2 Together - FPtr 2tog –  Yo twice. Insert hook from front to back to front around the post of the first indicated stitch and draw up a loop. [Yo , pull through 2 loops] twice – 2 LOOPS ON HOOK.  Yo twice. Insert hook from front to back to front around the post of the last indicated stitch and draw up a loop. [Yo , pull through 2 loops] twice – 3 LOOPS ON HOOK.  Yo and draw through all 3 loops.

Join color I/5 with a standing hdc through your Round 11 ch-5 corner space and the Round 12 corner space directly behind it together.  (Ch 2, hdc) through the same spaces together.  *Returning to Round 12 only – sc in the next 11 stitches – don’t miss the first ‘hidden’ stitch.  In Round 11 we made a FPtr on each side of the popcorn and a FPtr 2tog over the top of the popcorn – working around these stitches FPtr 2tog around the FPtr to the right of the popcorn and around the FPtr 2tog over the top of the popcorn.  Returning to Round 12 – skip the stitch directly behind FPtr 2tog just made, sc in the next 4 stitches.  Working around the front post stitches from Round 11 again – FPtr 2tog around the FPtr 2tog over the top of the popcorn and around the FPtr to the left of the popcorn.  Returning to Round 12 do not skip the stitch directly behind the FPtr 2tog just made, sc in the last 11 stitches of side.  (Hdc, ch 2, Hdc) in the Round 11 and Round 12 corner spaces together.*  Repeat * to * 3 more times, omitting corner sequence on final repeat.  Join with a slst to beginning hdc and fasten off, or alternatively use an invisible join as we will be back posting in the next round.  30 stitches per side.



Round 14:

Remember to shallow post your stitches in this round.

Join color E/1 with a standing hdc in any corner space.  (Ch 2, hdc) in the same space.  *BPhdc around the next 12 stitches, ch 1, skip the next stitch, BPhdc around the next 4 stitches, ch 1, skip the next stitch, BPhdc around the last 12 stitches of side.  (Hdc, ch 2, hdc) in the next corner space.*  Repeat * to * 3 more times, omitting corner sequence on final repeat. Join with a slst to beginning hdc, DO NOT fasten off.  30 stitches and 2 ch-1 spaces per side.


Round 15:

Ch 2 – counts as first hdc.  *(Dc, ch 2, dc) in the next corner space.  Hdc in each stitch and ch-1 space across side.*  Repeat * to * 3 more times, omitting last hdc on final repeat.  Join with a slst to 2nd ch of beginning ch-2 and fasten off.  34 stitches per side.

Round 16:

In this round, we are going to work spike stitches over the tops of some of our Round 15 stitches.  Because these stitches will totally obscure some stitches, it can be difficult to know where to start again after working them, so before starting this round we are going to place some stitch markers to make it easier.   Take a moment and place a stitch marker in the 18th and 22nd stitch of each side.  You need to mark these stitches in order to work this round – it is written assuming you have placed them.

Special Stitch – Spike Stitch - spike –  working over the top of your prior round stitches, insert hook in indicated stitch or space and pull up a loop.  Pull loop up to same height as the current round – 2 LOOPS ON HOOK.  Yo and pull through both loops.

Join color B/6 with a standing sc in any corner space.  (Ch 2, sc) in same space.  *Skip the first stitch of the side, sc in the next 13 stitches.  You should have a ch-1 space from Round 14 that already contains an hdc  – we will be working our next stitches into this space over the top of the stitch already in there (3 x spike) in the Round 14 ch-1 space enclosing the stitch already in the space. Returning to Round 15 - sc in the stitch that contains your first stitch marker of the side, sc in the next stitch.  Working into the next Round 14 ch-1 space and over the stitch already there –  (3 spike) in the Round 14 ch-1 space enclosing the stitch already in the space.  Returning to Round 15 – sc in the stitch that contains your next stitch marker, sc in the last 12 stitches of side. (Sc, ch 2, sc) in the next corner space.*  Repeat * to * 3 more times, omitting corner sequence on final repeat.  Join with a slst to beginning sc, or alternatively join with an invisible join as we will be back posting in the next round.  36 stitches per side.

Remove all stitch markers if you haven’t already done so.


Round 17:

Join color A/4 with a standing hdc in any corner space. (Hdc, ch 2, 2 hdc) in the same space. *BPhdc around each stitch of the side.  (2 hdc, ch 2, 2 hdc) in the next corner space.*  Repeat * to * 3 more times, omitting corner sequence on final repeat.  Join with a slst to beginning hdc and fasten off.  40 stitches per side.

Please Remember:
This pattern was written and designed by me, Lisa Mauser, for This Little Hook of Mine. I am happy to share it with you, but this pattern belongs to me and I retain all rights.  You may not distribute, sell, or share this pattern, or any parts of it.  If you wish to share the pattern, please refer the party you are sharing it with to the original pattern link. Though this pattern has been tested, it is not perfect.  If you find a mistake, please let me know in the comments below or through the contact me button and I will fix it.

Thank you for respecting my property.  I really hope you enjoyed the pattern!






To link to the Merlin pattern, click here
To link to the Arthur pattern, click here.
To link to the Guinevere pattern, click  here.
To link to the Lady of the Lake pattern, click here.
To link to the Morgana pattern, click here.
To link to the Percival pattern, click here.

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